Blog

Occasionally, I like to write to complement my photography.

Colin Henderson Photography Colin Henderson Photography

Letterewe Corbetts - On the edge of Fisherfield

Joining a friend on the Letterewe estate, on his journey to complete the Corbetts.

Beinn Lair, Beinn Airigh Charr, Beinn Tharsuinn Chaol, Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor and A’Mhaighdean on the Letterewe estate in the North-West Highlands of Scotland

From left to right: Beinn Lair, Beinn Airigh Charr, Beinn Tharsuinn Chaol, Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor and A’Mhaighdean on the Letterewe estate in the North-West Highlands of Scotland

Letterewe and Fisherfield are two parts of Scotland I’d always understood to be owned by estates of the same name but as I researched this post I learnt they’re not. Rather, the area (which, combined, is managed as a large and, for Scotland, somewhat remote, deer forest) is owned by different estates including Letterewe plus Dundonell, Eilean Darach, Little Gruinard and Larachantivore. (Source: West Ross Deer management Group). The largest land-owner, I believe, with 43,000 acres of land, is the Letterewe estate, which shares on its website that is ‘protected from insensitive development and has no surfaced roads’.

There’s two common routes into Fisherfield / Letterewe, an area often labelled - I’d suggest erroneously - as ‘The Great Wilderness’ (although the ‘great’ part is definitely true). Corrie Hallie is one starting point on the A832 in the North-East for Fisherfield forest, with Poolewe for Letterewe in the North-West. I’ve also accessed Letterewe from the South-East, walking in along the north shore of Loch Maree before heading northwards over Bealach Mheinnidh towards Fionn Loch and Carnmore, plus I’ve climbed some of the the Fisherfield Munros from Incheril and the Heights of Kinlochewe. It’s also possible to access the hills from Gruinard Bay in the north. All of these routes involve long walk-ins, initially on tracks, then stalker’s paths that lead upwards onto grassy and rocky hillsides forming a landscape that hosts six of Scotland’s Munros (Slioch, Sgurr Ban, Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, Beinn Tarsuinn, A’Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor), six Corbetts (Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, Beinn Dearg Mòr, Beinn Dearg Bheag, Beinn Lair, Beinn Airigh Charr and Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor) and two Grahams, which I’ll mention below.

The purpose of our visit to Letterewe was for a friend to finish all his Corbetts (which are 222 Scottish hills between 2,500 feet and 3,000 feet high). Joining him was myself, plus another friend who has completed all his Munros, Corbetts and Grahams (climbing his last one of each in 2024 over one weekend, which I’d propose is somewhat remarkable). I’m lacking behind both with only 254/282 Munros completed, and a paltry 77 Corbetts.

Our mini expedition started mid-morning on the shores of Loch Ewe, at Poolewe, near Gairloch. It was still early enough in the season to be cold in the shade - especially at night-time - but a stable, high-pressure weather window had brought sunshine and blessed us with perfect conditions for backpacking, enough so that I chose a bivvy bag over a tent, happy there was no risk of midges and a manageable risk of ticks.

We followed a great single-track path to start, passing Kernsary farm to reach Carnmore lodge and bothy before we double-backed on ourselves and climbed our first hill, the Graham, Beinn a' Chaisgein Beag. We’d walked 25km from our car. A boat or pack-raft would have been handy for crossing Fionn Loch (translation: the white loch) which the estate shares is full of brown trout. Just after 8.30pm, we stopped for the night on the bealach to the north of Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor (Grid Reference: NG983806). There were two small lochans nearby, one of which would have provided us with water, if we’d used a good filter, but we’d chosen to carry our liquid up.

The following morning, after a leisurely start, we climbed Beinn a' Chaisgein Mor, the rocky summit providing us with fine views of all the remaining hills we planned to ascend on our two-night, three-day trip. The Corbett count for my friend was now 220/222, so just two to go. Before then, we’d chosen an ascent of the north-west ridge of the Munro, A’Mhaighdean, which I’m recalling none of us had done this before but we’d all highly recommend it. There’s nothing difficult (although we did join further up) but there’s some mild clambering through crags with two squat, rocky pinnacles near the top that need some consideration to bypass, unless you’re carrying climbing equipment to descend / ascend them direct. (Tip - At the first bluff, if you’re facing towards the summit, reverse back slightly and descend left into a steep gully and take the first right). The summit of A’Mhaighdean is easily reached thereafter. And it has amazing views, often described as the best in Scotland.

A key goal of our trip was to visit another part of Letterewe that we hadn’t been to, which was Beinn Tharsuinn Chaol, a rocky ridge between the waters of Gorm Loch Mor and the remarkable cliffs of Beinn Lair. In the end, given the time of day, we traversed mostly underneath this ridge line on the south side, descending early to reach Bealach a' Chùirn and a welcome stalker’s path which led us neatly around to Bealach Mheinnidh, which we’d chosen for our second camp of the trip. After getting ourselves ready for the evening, we climbed Beinn Lair in really nice evening light and my friend’s Corbett count was now 221/222. Just one to go!

Our journey to our friend’s final Corbett, and the last hill of our trip, was characterised by steep ascents followed by even steeper descents, which thankfully were softened by fine views. We climbed 280m to the summit of the Graham, Meall Mheinnidh, and then made a punishing 460m descent and 540m ascent up to the summit of Beinn Airigh Charr. Corbett 222/222 was celebrated in style with a half-bottle of champagne before we reluctantly started our long walk back to Poolewe. Our spirits remained high throughout, as the view over Loch Maree towards Torridon and the Isle of Skye as we descended was amazing, as was the landscape looking out towards Poolewe.

Photography

The images below are all captured with either a Sony RX100 compact camera or my mobile phone. I’m looking forward to returning to Letterewe at some point with professional camera gear, after seeing lots of potential during the trip for fine art mountain landscape photography. If I’m correct, I’ll be able to illustrate unique views that I’ve not yet seen other photographers’ choose. There’s perhaps a reason for this but it’s always good to go and find out for yourself. Either way, I’m confident that it won’t be a wasted trip.

 
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Lenticular clouds in Scotland

Lenticular clouds behind the Munro, Slioch, in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Lenticular clouds (Latin name Atocumulus Lenticularis, or ‘like a lens’) are ‘lens-shaped orographic wave clouds forming when the air is stable and winds blow across hills and mountains from the same or similar direction at different heights through the troposphere’. (Source: UK Meteorological Office).

Orographic means ‘relating to mountains’, which is likely why I’ve always found lenticular clouds highly attractive, their dramatic shapes filling the sky and providing a fine backdrop for mountain landscape photography.

I first encountered such saucer-shaped clouds in the early 2000s when I was in Patagonia, trekking around Cerro Fitz Roy and traversing a section of the Southern Patagonia Ice Cap, plus later, when researching a travel guidebook to Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. I wasn’t focused on photography back then - there’s not any lenticular clouds in my landscape portfolio at present - but I do have a great example I feel I can share, which is the cover image for US photographer Linde Waidhofer’s large-format coffee-table book, ‘Unknown ‍Patagonia’, which has beautiful images from Chilean Patagonia. You can view Linde’s image and purchase the book at her website - www.westerneye.com.

It’s been very rare for me to see lenticular clouds in person, either in Patagonia or Scotland, and I’ve never had the opportunity to properly photograph them. Unfortunately, this is still the case as the images below were captured in what I’d term ‘run and gun’ style with a Sony RX100 compact camera, from the road-side beneath the Munro, Slioch (‘the Spear’) as we returned from a backpacking trip in Letterewe in the North-West Highlands of Scotland. I’m proposing however that they illustrate exceptional enough conditions for Scotland to warrant sharing.

 
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Winter hillwalking in Scotland — What to take

My clothing and equipment list for winter hillwalking in Scotland’s Munro mountains.

A companion post to my Scottish Winter camping kit list, with some updated thinking on clothing. As before, it’s not a super lightweight gear list but I’m proposing my choices are a good balance between weight and durability.

Scottish Winter weather can be unforgiving. Having the right clothing and equipment helps to make it safer and more enjoyable.

There’s two quotes I recall that I relate to Winter walking in Scotland, one which is “There’s no such thing as winter hillwalking, it’s all mountaineering” and the other being “On the coldest moment of the trip, if you aren’t wearing everything you brought, you brought too much”. (The latter to which I’d propose adding “Unless you're too cold”).

Winter walking in Scotland’s Munro hills is hugely fun, if you’re prepared for the mixed and often wild weather that will be thrown at you (which is indeed part of the fun). The below is a list of things i like to carry to help keep it that way. On top of this is navigating carefully and being hill fit so I can expend the least amount of energy across the ground I’ll cover, with the start of every year reminding me that deep, soft snow is really difficult to travel through.

Wear

  • Underwear — I prefer Merino wool for its odour-prevention properties and warmth. A heavier material helps to keep everything warm.

  • Trousers — Powerstretch tights are ideal, if not overly flattering these days as they’re super tight (tights). I have a looser pair of Karrimor Powerstretch leggings with pockets that are 20 years old and have many small holes in them but I’ve found nothing better. Soft-shell trousers are popular but are often fairly heavy. If you don’t mind wearing your waterproof trousers all day, a decent fleece layer may be all you need.

  • Socks — Wool is best, I’d propose, with Bridgedale’s 4-season models fitting me perfectly in size 11

  • Boots — I use La Sportiva’s Nepal Extremes for the warmth (a friend rates Scarpa’s Mont Blanc Pro model). Both however are what’s termed as B3 boots and are overkill for basic hillwalking. Ask your local outdoor shop about for B1 and B2 rated boots (such as Scarpa Mantas, which I’ve always rated but they are now more tech-orientated and I’ve not used them for a long time). I’d then suggest that you buy any suitable boots from that shop, rather than online, so the business is still there the next time you need advice.

  • T-shirt — Merino wool for me (Artilect’s M-Sprint which, at 115gsm, is super light and dries fast). I’ll add a long sleeve version or a 100-weight fleece top if it’s colder.

  • Arm warmers — Unusual for hillwalking, I imagine - more used for cycling - but I generate a lot of heat and when wearing a short sleeve base layer I find them excellent for keeping my arms warm and my core cool. (I use a pair from Endura, made from Powerstretch-style fleece).

  • Windshirt — I rate Patagonia’s Houdini windproof because it’s got a hood, but it would be better if it had cinch cords at the front. You can use your shell jacket instead and save carrying that weight but a windproof is much more breathable.

  • Hat — I prefer a thin nylon head-band (Dynafit) as it allows heat to escape from the top of my head - anything fleece or wool is too hot for me to walk in. If I choose a hat, Vaga’s Club Cap has an uncanny ability to not blow off my head, despite strong gales.

  • Gloves — Rab Powerstretch or Montane Trail Lite gloves I find to be an excellent first layer, with more protective pairs carried in my pack

Warmth

  • Fleece or softshell jacket I still rate Rab’s Winter Guide jacket but it was discontinued back in 2022. It’s very heavy (850gm) but it has a nice ‘bomb-proof’ feeling about it when I put it on (as long as there’s a windproof layer on top - I find the Vapour-Rise fabric, despite Rab’s marketing claims, to be not very windproof at all). There was a later version which was a bit lighter but I imagine you’d always prefer to be wearing one than carrying it. The current (2024) Vapour-Rise Summit jacket unfortunately I find too light and a middle option might be Patagonia’s Nano-Air Hoody, but it’s expensive and a thick 200 weight fleece will definitely do (I used a Berghaus Spectrum pullover for many years).

  • Insulated jacket — A jacket to keep me warm when I’m stopped and for wearing in the worst weather. I’d recommend Rab’s Generator Alpine for a good forecast and for backpacking and Mountain Equipment’s Citadel jacket for a day walk, or perhaps their Fitzroy model as a ‘do it all’ alternative. If I’m planning to be a long way from the road, I’ll also consider a pair of Mountain Equipment Compressor Pants.

  • Buff — Any model will do. I have a Celtman-branded one, which is made of a shiny nylon, plus a cycling one from Castelli, which is more like a thin fleece. I prefer the latter.

  • Balaclava — Powerstretch again. Lots of head protection in a light package.

  • Gloves — I’m wearing gloves, as above, but they’re thin and not windproof so they’re best suited for lower down. Waterproof gloves are an option for a heavier layer but I’ve always found when they get wet they stay wet (sometimes for days afterwards). My current choice is a Mountain Equipment Randonee glove, a soft-shell glove with a pile inner which I’ve found to be excellent. If they do get too wet, I can just squeeze the water out of them.

  • Insulated mitts and outers — I like a third layer for my hands, for emergency purposes. My preference would be a pair of thick Primaloft mitts, such Mountain Equipment’s Citadel Mitts, but they don’t fit me and their Fitzroy model Mountain Equipment no longer make. I’ve not yet found any suitable alternatives. I’m using instead a long-discontinued pair of sheepskin mitts from Extremities that have a separate, thick outer waterproof shell. They’re not light but they’ve proved themselves to be more than warm enough during a very long open Winter bivvy.

Wet

  • Waterproof top - I switch between a Mountain Equipment Lhotse and a Montane Ajax depending on the moisture expected. (The former is a neater fit so I wear a belay jacket over the top. The latter I can fit underneath my shell jacket in wet weather if need be). I don’t think you’d go wrong with the 3-layer versions from Montane, Rab or Mountain Equipment, all of which have hoods they have optimised for UK Winter weather. (The protection from any hood I’d propose shouldn’t be underestimated).

  • Waterproof bottoms - Berghaus’ Goretex Paclite Pants I’d propose are a good balance between too heavy and too light. The assumption being you’ll be walking with a good forecast. Goretex Paclite Plus or 3-layer Goretex are the more bombproof options for livelier weather.

  • Gaiters — Essential for wet ground and/or when there’s lots of fresh snow around. I prefer to wear gaiters these days rather than carry them, using a comfortable older pair from Rab.

Hydration

  • Water bottleTreadlite Gear’s bottle pouches give me access to water up front without taking my pack off, similar to a running vest. Their marketing says the pouches can accommodate up to a 750ml water bottle. I switch between a 600ml Smart water bottle and a 500ml Nalgene. I’ll also carry a 1-litre Nalgene, which I find simple to use with big gloves on. Arguably you don’t need both, but I like to keep hydrated.

  • Flask — If I’m on my own, I’ll likely bin the pouches up front and take an MSR Windburner stove because the weight is equal, sans the liquid, and I can use it more than once. When I’m walking with others, few wish to sit around in the cold waiting for a stove to boil so I’ll take a Thermos Ultimate flask for a hot drink (my preference being diluted orange juice with a pinch of salt).

Safety

Minimum;

  • Map / waterproof case — Essential and I’ll take two maps in Winter so I have a spare.

  • Compass — You likely won’t need two compasses but I lost one once - it came off around my neck - so I carry a lightweight spare (Silva Field). Their Expedition 4 model is my first choice.

  • Headtorch — I use Petzl’s Nao+ model, with either one or two batteries depending on how far I plan to be from the road. I might also take a Petzl Bindi as a backup.

  • Phone — I’d recommend downloading the Sarloc app, which was developed by Russ Hore, a former Mountain Rescue team member, plus registering your phone for calling 999 by text, i.e. emergency SMS. Modern mobile phones are highly water resistant but I’ll always carry it in a dry bag or waterproof case, and either turn it off or keep it somewhere close to my core so it’s warm and the battery doesn’t die quickly. (Airplane mode is your friend).

  • Ice axe — Petzl’s Summit 59cm is my default ice axe but if I don’t anticipate needing it, or using it very much, I’ll carry a very lightweight Petzl Ride, accepting a risk that it’s not optimal for ice axe arrest

  • Crampons — I have an old pair of Grivel G12 crampons, which are blunt and heavy. I’ve sharpened them many times but the latest G12s, and other models such as Petzl’s Vasak crampons are attractive, as they’re much lighter. Ten point crampons such as Grivel’s G10 might also meet your needs.

  • Blizzard bag — Blizzard’s Active Range (2-layer) I feel is a good choice for the Scottish Highlands. I have the survival bag but I imagine in a true emergency scenario I’d be cutting it into a blanket (picturing it would be difficult to get me or someone else inside with, e.g. a broken leg or ankle).

  • Bothy bag — It could be argued this isn’t required if you have a Blizzard Bag but I’d never go out without both. The protection you can get from a bothy bag (having sat in one for over 12 hours, wishing I had a blanket as well) is remarkable. I’ll carry either Terra Nova’s 2-man bothy, or if the forecast is benign possibly a Supalite Bothy Bag.

  • Ski goggles — I have a cheap pair which I’ve had to glue the foam back on a few times. Spending money on a decent pair would be sensible but googles are something I’ve found I rarely need to use, and the ones I have are functional, so I’ve never got round to it.

Recommended;

  • OS Maps app — Amazing, easy to use app as a back-up to your map and compass and a bargain as regards to price versus benefit.

  • Watch — I use a Garmin Fenix 5 model which I’ve programmed to display my grid reference, altitude, distance walked and speed on the front screen, which I find invaluable. Occasionally, I’ll upload a GPX file I can follow if need be, depending on the complexity of the route.

  • Garmin inReach — I like going out on my own and having a means of communicating back home is useful, as is the emergency response capability, for absolute worst case scenarios. The latest Apple iPhones have satellite messaging, which could be argued makes an inReach redundant, but the battery life is much longer and I’m happy to carry both as I don’t like to rely on a single such safety item. Garmin’s 2024 cost model changes, so you only have to pay monthly for the emergency element (with e.g. texts and weather forecasts chargeable), is ideal for my purposes and makes it a lot more affordable (handset cost aside).

  • Powerbank — Essential if you’re using all the technology above. I use Nitecore’s 10,000 power brick (10,000mAh = 6,400mAh) and the appropriate cables to charge my watch mostly, plus my iPhone and inReach.

  • Trekking poles — Walking poles make travelling in snow so much easier, as well as river crossings. I’m currently using a pair of Alpkit Carbon Marathon poles. They aren’t bombproof - I’ve broken one pole and the clasp came loose on another - but they’re fairly robust and nice and light.

Personal care

  • Suncream — SP50+ is the minimum I consider taking outdoors. I’ve been quite badly sunburnt three times and I have no wish to have this happen again.

  • First aid kit — I’m always considering risk in Winter and my aim is to need no first aid but I’ll always carry a decent-sized kit that covers blisters, mild to heavy bleeding and breaks. Anything major, especially if I’m on my own, is going to warrant emergency decision-making.

  • Nose/lip balm — Not essential by any means but my nose runs constantly outside in the Winter (okay, from October) and this saves me have chapped skin for days afterwards

Photography

In addition to the above, I’ll choose from one of the items below for photography;

  • Mobile phone — Occasionally I’ll rely solely on my phone (e.g. if the weather forecast is poor and I don’t expect to do anything with the photos) but I prefer to keep it for emergency purposes

  • Sony RX100 — A great balance between lightweight and quality outcomes. I’ll carry a spare memory card, battery, dry bag and Lenspen. Difficult to use as anything other than a point and shoot with big gloves on but not impossible.

  • Nikon D810 - Love it but it’s heavy with a 24-70mm f2.8 lens attached (and sometimes a 70-200mm f2.8 in my bag) so I’ll keep it for when I anticipate good photography opportunities (which doesn’t mean blue skies, stormy weather is much more interesting). There’s no need for me to carry a spare battery unless I’m out for a few days.

  • GoPro Hero 8 — The opposite to the above in that it needs lots of batteries (x3 at least for a winter’s day out and even then I’m caught short when the battery gets cold and it dies in minutes). I’d like the Hero 9 or later, which are compatible with GoPro’s Enduro battery, which has a vastly better battery life in cold weather.


Are you new to going out in Winter?

I’d recommend Mountaineering Scotland’s ‘Think WINTER’ campaign, especially the sections on Navigation, Skills and Avalanche.


Still the windiest day out I’ve had on a Scottish hillside, where we were driven to our knees on a 25-degree slope. Only Patagonia has come close.

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Wild camping and photography - Beinn an Aodainn

Sunrise from a wild camp on the summit of Beinn an Aodainn in the Knoydart peninsula of Scotland.

Wild camping in a tent above a cloud-covered Loch Cuaich (Quoich) at dawn from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Ben Aden) in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Beinn an Aodainn (also known as Ben Aden) is a Corbett in the North-West Highlands of Scotland. It’s located in Knoydart which is roughly 25 miles north-west of Fort William as the crow flies. A typically rugged landscape, it’s a long way from the nearest road.

Scotland’s Knoydart peninsula is commonly promoted as a ‘Last Great Wilderness’. I don’t believe this to be true (you can reach it by ferry, there’s a public house and there’s many man-made tracks and paths that aid your travel) but I do believe that another term for it - ‘The Rough Bounds’ - is highly accurate. The prevailing rocky or tussocky ground, and relentlessly steep slopes, makes for taxing hillwalking, especially with a heavy backpack (or - on two occasions where I’d initially thought I was fortunate to have blue skies - when you’re being baked under a relentless sun). Add to this a long walk from the nearest entry points to get to the foot of the peak - the shortest for Beinn an Aodainn is three hours - and you’re faced with some of the toughest hillwalking in Scotland. It’s a gold mine though for backpacking and camping.

This was my fifth time visiting Knoydart, having previously walked in from both Kinloch Hourn and Glen Shiel, taken the ferry in from Inverie and sea kayaked in along Loch Hourn. My friend had four hills left to do on his Corbett round - having completed all his Munros - and I’m slowly ticking off all my Munros. Garbh Chioch Mhor and Sgurr nan Coireachan are two of just three I’ve not done in these parts with the other being Meall Buidhe, which I’d bypassed back in 2011 due to nerve issues in my foot.

On that 2011 trip, we ticked off most of Knoydart’s Munros and Corbetts, including Beinn na Caillich, Ladhar Bheinn, Luinne Bheinn, Beinn an Aodainn and Sgurr na Ciche. On another trip I climbed Beinn Bhuidhe and on a different visit, we ascended Sgurr nan Eugallt and the Graham, Slat Bheinn, before topping out on Sgurr a'Choire-bheithe. Our plan that day was to do Beinn an Aodainn as well, negating the need for this current trip, but the length of our route, heat exhaustion, the late time of day and a plague of horse-flies all tallied up to us choosing to miss it out. The best things though, as is said, often come to those who wait.

Getting there

Our starting point for Beinn an Aodainn was near Kinloch Hourn, which is around 1h 40 mins travel from Fort William by car, or perhaps a taxi if you’re doing a through-route (see this Weekend Wonder: Ladhar Bheinn feature for more options). We walked along the shores of Loch Cuaich / Loch Quoich on a mostly boggy and very overgrown track, for approximately 3 hours, before heading first towards Lochan nam Breac and then into the corrie, following Allt Coire na Cruaiche to reach Bealach na h Eangair (following the route as described by Walk Highlands). We were on the summit of Beinn an Aodainn in just under six hours.

Camping-wise, there’s relatively few spaces I saw to put a tent on the summit of Beinn an Aodainn but we easily got two pitches and there looked to be places off to the north-west as well. I’d recommend taking a soft flask with a filter as there are numerous small lochans near the summit you can take advantage of. Otherwise (and probably also in drought conditions) you’ll need to carry all your water up the hill.

Camera equipment

 
Looking over Loch Cuaich (Quoich) towards the Knoydart hills in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

The walk in along Loch Cuaich

Looking back towards Loch Cuaich (Quoich) from the ascent of Beinn an Aodainn (Ben Aden) in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Looking back to Loch Cuaich from the ascent of Beinn an Aodainn. Our starting point was the far shoreline, out of sight to the left.

Bealach na h Eangair, with Loch Nevis visible between Sgurr na Ciche and Beinn an Aodainn  (Click to view larger)

Loch Nevis from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn

A cloud-covered Loch Cuaich (Quoich) at dawn from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Ben Aden) in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Rock towers near the summit of Beinn an Aodainn

The rising sun behind a cloud-covered Loch Cuaich from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Click to view larger)

A cloud-covered Loch Cuaich (Quoich) at dawn from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Ben Aden) in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.
A cloud-covered Loch Cuaich (Quoich) at dawn from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Ben Aden) in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.
A cloud-covered Loch Cuaich (Quoich) at dawn from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Ben Aden) in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.
Clouds dispersing on Loch Cuaich (Quoich) at day break from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Ben Aden) in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Early morning clouds dispersing from the shores of Loch Cuaich 

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Wild camping and photography - Beinn Laoigh

Photography from a summit camp on Beinn Laoigh, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

The defined east ridge splits the craggy south-east and north-east faces of the Munro, Ben Lui, in the West Highlands of Scotland.

 Looking over to Ben Laoigh's rocky east ridge and Coire Goathach from Ben Oss

Beinn Laoigh, commonly known as Ben Lui, is a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland. Located c.8km from the village of Tyndrum, the peak is seen often from the A85 roadside, it’s fine horseshoe-shaped northern corrie, Coire Goathach, providing a commanding view for passing traffic, especially so in when it’s in full winter conditions.

A winter ascent of Beinn Laoigh from the east, up the classic Central Gully, had long been my plan but my only previous ascent of Beinn Laigh was in 2001, from Glen Lochy in the west due to an outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease in the United Kingdom. I’ve not climbed Central Gully - and likely won’t as my appetite for winter climbing has waned as I’ve got older - but on this occasion it wasn’t possible as a winter climb as there was no snow of note, despite being December. What had piqued my interest was a temperature differential of greater than twelve degrees, with the forecast for Tyndrum at 232m being below freezing conditions and Beinn Laoigh’s summit (at 1130m) forecast for plus 12 degrees Celsius - a classic recipe for a cloud inversion.

Cloud inversions, or more accurately temperature inversions, I understand are relatively rare. Most common in the colder months of the year, they’re caused - in my super simple terms - when the air temperature at lower altitudes is colder than the air at higher altitudes, which causes a layer of fog to form beneath you as you climb a mountain. I’ve popped out of the fog before on a Munro to find myself above a cloud inversion, which is great, but I much prefer waking up on the summit of a peak with the clouds beneath me.

Getting there

I travelled from Edinburgh to Glasgow Queen Street by train (Scotrail) and then took an onwards connection from Glasgow Central to Tyndrum on the Fort William line. From Tyndrum, the common route to Beinn Laoigh is a long (c.9km) but straight-forward walk from Dalrigh up Glen Cononish, home of a gold mine, to the foot of Coire Goathach, which I followed for a while but, because I was ticking off Munros on my Munro round, I broke off early up the steep south-west slopes of Beinn Dubhcraig to climb Ben Oss first. Heading south-west from Ben Oss and then north-north-west up the flanks of Beinn Laoigh to its summit felt somewhat adventurous but it was mainly a lot of hard work, especially with camping and photography gear. I arrived at the summit at 4pm, just as the sun was going down, and I pitched my tent just off the summit, at a small area of grass which I imagine is the only possible place on this fine rocky mountain to put a tent.

Camera equipment

  • Nikon D810

  • Nikon 24-70mm F2.8

  • Lowepro Toploader AW 75

 
Lit up by the evening sun are the upper south and east ridges of Ben Lui, a Munro near Tyndrum in the West Highlands of Scotland.
River Cononish flows down Glen Cononish from the summit of Ben Lui in the West Highlands of Scotland, with the moon rising in the background.

The moon rising above the waters of Glen Cononish, which eventually flow into Loch Tay

Wild camping on the summit of Beinn Laoigh

The view south towards the Arrochar Alps over a cloud inversion at sunset from Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

The view south from Beinn Laoigh summit towards the Arrochar Alps, as the sun sets

Looking over to Ben Cruachan and Stob Daimh from the summit of Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

Ben Cruachan and Stob Daimh from the summit of Beinn Laoigh

Looking over Beinn a' Chleibh towards the Paps of Jura from the summit of Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

Looking over Beinn a' Chleibh towards the Paps of Jura

A cloud inversion drifts up Glen Cononish towards the lower east ridge of Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

A cloud inversion fills Glen Cononish beneath the east ridge of Beinn Laoigh

The panoramic view from the rocky summit of Ben Lui as a cloud inversion fills Glen Cononish in the West Highlands of Scotland.

A cloud inversion fills Glen Cononish as seen from the rocky summit of Beinn Laoigh

The view north of Tyndrum from the summit of Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

The slopes of Beinn Chuirn, a Corbett above the gold mine in Glen Cononish, and beyond towards Glen Lochy

A cloud inversion drifts up Glen Cononish, as seen from the rocky summit of Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

A large split rock on the summit of Beinn Laoigh gives a commanding view down a cloud-filled Glen Cononish

Mountains above a cloud inversion in the West Highlands of Scotland

Descending into the clouds on the return to Tyndrum

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Wild camping and photography - Màm Sodhail

Overnight on Màm Sodhail, a Munro above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Part of a Wild camping and photography series. (View more images from this Glen Affric backpacking trip in my portfolio)

A cloud inversion laps at the ridge leading out from Mam Sodhail to Sgùrr na Lapaich, above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

The moon rises behind the ridge leading out from Mam Sodhail to Sgùrr na Lapaich

As I’d packed for a weekend’s backpacking with a friend in November, in Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland, I realised that I hadn’t missed the weight of a DSLR camera, especially on top of the 12kg of hillwalking and camping equipment I was planning to carry.

Throughout the summer season I’d been illustrating my outdoor activities with a light-weight Sony RX100 compact camera, photographing trail running routes in Edinburgh’s Pentland Hills plus some attempts I’d made on Tranter's round in Glen Nevis. It was a change therefore to be carrying a professional DSLR up and down hills again. The image quality and usability of my work models - a Nikon D810 in this case - is streets ahead compared to my Sony and I was banking on the photographic opportunities a favourable high pressure forecast, squeezed in between two periods of low, looked to offer. Old-school DSLRs and professional lenses however aren’t light and I was conscious I was adding an extra 2kg to the weight of my pack for a trip that we'd mapped out as 40km distance over two days, with 2100m ascent.

The weight penalty of professional camera equipment I felt was worth it on this occasion. Glen Affric is often referred to as one of Scotland’s most scenic glens and the Walk Highlands website describes two of the peaks we'd chosen for our backpacking trip - Càrn Eige and Màm Sodhail - as the "highest mountains north of the Great Glen and spectacular viewpoints". Both mountains are Munros, two of the 282 Scottish peaks over 3,000ft high that are listed in Hugh Munro’s tables, with Mam Sodhail, or the ‘Hill of the Barns’, being the smaller of the two by just two metres, standing 1181m tall.

We’d started our trip the previous day at a car park in Glen Affric, camping c.6km from the car on what I imagined were the only two pieces of dry ground that day in Gleann nam Fiadh. The terrain was drier higher up and, in the morning, as we admired the golden colours of the landscape - it was abnormally autumnal weather for November - we ascended Coire Mhic Fhearchair and headed for Sròn Garbh and the rocky ridge that leads from Stob Coire Dhomhnuill onto Càrn Eige. From there we summited Beinn Fhionnlaidh and retraced our steps, our plan being to continue over Màm Sodhail towards another nearby Munro, An Socach, and camp on a bealach beneath that peak, ascending An Socach for our fourth Munro of the trip the following morning.

I distinctly recall standing beside Màm Sodhail's huge summit cairn, pondering the views Càrn Eige and Màm Sodhail were said to offer. We couldn’t see much at all but neither of us were even remotely disappointed. Since lunchtime, a thick blanket of cloud had filled the glens beneath us, 360 degrees around. It stretched as far as our eyes could see - at least all the way to Fort William in one direction, almost 100km away. Camping above a cloud inversion is not something I’ll ever turn down and we easily made the decision to stop for the day, much earlier than planned, pitching our tents about 3.30pm as the sun started to dip towards the horizon. Settling in to take in the glorious view we had above the clouds, I thought of the many times I had walked and camped in poor weather. These were special moments indeed. (If it’s any consolation, on exiting our tents the following morning, we found ourselves to be completely within these clouds, with absolutely no views at all).

Getting there

For Glen Affric, head south out of Inverness on the A82 toward Drumnadrochit. Take the A831 towards Cannich and then continue south-west along Glen Affric to reach the car park at grid reference NH215242. For Càrn Eige and Màm Sodhail, take the track through the woods which leads you first west and then north into Gleann nam Fiadh. Alternatively, drive further up Glen Affric and park at GR N201234, follow the track along the northern side of Loch Affric and ascend via Coire Leachavie.

Camera equipment

  • Nikon D810

  • Nikon 24-70mm F2.8

  • Lowepro Toploader AW 75

 
Looking out over a cloud inversion from the large summit cairn on Mam Sodhail above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Mam Sodhail's large summit cairn

Wild camping on the summit of Màm Sodhail

The summit of Sgurr na Lapaich peaks out above a cloud inversion behind the summit ridge of Mam Sodhail above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland

Sgurr na Lapaich peaks out above the clouds

A cloud inversion surfaces Beinn Fhionnlaidh and the Mullardoch hills behind Mam Sodhail, a Munro above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Clouds lap over the bealach between Màm Sodhail and Càrn Eige

A cloud inversion creeps up Gleann nam Fiadh between Carn Eige and Sgurr na Lapaich above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Gleann nam Fiadh filled with clouds between Carn Eige and Sgurr na Lapaich

The view south over a cloud inversion and Sgurr nan Conbhairean in Glen Shiel towards the Grey Corries and Ben Nevis, the UK's highest mountain, from the summit of Mam Sodhail above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.

Looking over the Glen Shiel peaks towards Ben Nevis on the far horizon

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Adventure Medic interview - Outdoor and adventure sports photography

Hints and tips for the Adventure Medic community on capturing outdoor and adventure sports photography.

Photography for me is now a passion project but, when I was working commercially, I was asked by Matt Wilkes, an Edinburgh doctor and expedition medic, to contribute some thoughts for the ‘Adventure Medic’ community on outdoor and adventure sports photography We discussed the below, plus Matt’s future expedition plans, over a pint of beer in an Edinburgh bar. You can see it in its proper context on the Adventure Medic website.

Donnie Campbell, former Scotland 282 Munro Round record holder on Beinn Alligin in Torridon

Colin Henderson is a mountain and adventure sports photographer from Edinburgh. A digital project manager by trade, he took up photography fairly late in life, at first teaching himself the basics then perfecting his craft shooting friends and athletes at play in the mountains. His website is inspiring to anyone who loves the outdoors. We caught up with Colin to ask about his work, and to get some tips on improving our own adventure photography. We covered location, lighting, shooting angles, equipment, editing and resources – all you could need to shoot your next expedition in style.


Being an Adventure Sports Photographer sounds pretty good! What are the best parts of your job?

The best parts? I love being outside, especially at the start and end of the day when the light can be so magical. Visiting new places is always exciting (although I’ve realised you don’t have to go far to document adventure – there’s plenty gems in Scotland that I’m still discovering, despite travelling extensively over the country for years).

I do like seeing athletes perform well in their chosen environment, be it a runner in the mountains or a kayaker going down white water. There’s something very pleasing about seeing people who are really good at things do them really well. Being there to capture it on camera is a privilege.

Before I even get to a shoot, I enjoy the preparation that’s required. I love the process of marketing myself, pitching for work, researching ideas, scouting out locations and considering what equipment I’ll need to meet a brief (though see below). I also enjoy creating or reviewing production sheets, agreeing shot lists with the client, thinking about the digital tech, etc. Very often I’ll do all this myself but I will employ people to do parts of the process – I really like working with other creatives.

How about the worst?

The worst parts? I don’t like travelling. I’m slightly OCD and packing for a trip is stressful for me as I’ll pack and re-pack things in the run up to leaving, for no real reason. Taking off and landing in a plane are also necessary evils I could do without. Photography equipment is heavy and carrying equipment, especially up and down hills is hard work. There are days when I long to go out with just a waterproof in my rucksack. I always regret though not having the ability to capture things in one way or another – I’ll need to buy a Go Pro.

What has been your favourite shoot so far?

I was invited to Southern Chilean Patagonia to photograph the Patagonian Expedition Race, a 700km mountain biking, kayaking, trekking and mountaineering challenge for teams of four. The media team was a mix of video and still photographers from around the world and I still keep in touch with many of them. Our brief was to follow the racers and document the arduous nature of the race. It was epic. The landscape in Chile is wild, like Scotland I’d imagine thousands of years ago, and it made for a huge adventure.

I’d been to Patagonia before – I’m the author of a trekking and travel Guidebook to Patagonia’s Los Glaciares National Park, which is home to peaks such as Cerro Torre and Monte Fitz Roy – but not to Chile.

I’d love to shoot, Iceland, Norway, the Lofoten Islands and Pakistan.

What makes a great adventure sports photo?

What someone defines as a “great” photograph is generally a very personal thing but when I see an image that really captures my attention, it’s usually because two or more of the following have taken place:

People / Someone’s captured a dynamic moment in a really creative way;

Place / They’ve used an inspiring location (either one I’ve not seen before or, if I have, it’s photographed in a unique way) that really connects me with the scene and helps me understand what’s going on;

Lighting / They’ve made great use of natural or artificial light to bring the image to life.

There’s lots of good photographers out there ticking these boxes. But if you can do all three, consistently, on trip after trip. shoot after shoot, or for client after client, then you’ll start to stand out from the crowd.

What should we focus on to improve our pics?

Take shots when it’s wet and stormy. Take shots when other expedition members are tired. Take shots when you’re tired. Get up before folk and go to bed after them.

The best advice I received when I was starting out was to always have my camera readily accessible (I use a Lowepro Toploader pack and carry it over my chest) and take lots of shots. The former was great advice because it’s difficult to take lots of shots when your camera is in your backpack and the latter was because it set me up to give myself the best chance of capturing the right postures and the most dynamic movements when shooting athletes. I quickly realised that the more shots I took, the easier it was to understand what worked in different scenarios and what didn’t. It greatly increased my learning curve.

If you’ve plans to document an expedition you’re on, I’d recommend thinking of the story you’d like tell with your photos and then build up your ideas from there. Consider wide angle shots showing the environment of the adventure, then look for details in the landscape that brings a viewer closer into the action. Don’t forget the detail shots – the packing and approach, the taped, bloodied hand of a rock climber, the portrait of a weathered face that portrays the impact of a life spent outdoors or the close-up view of a wrinkled, callused hand of a whitewater paddler.

Take shots when it’s wet and stormy (especially take shots when it’s stormy – the light can often be amazing). Take shots when other expedition members are tired. Take shots when you’re tired. Get up before folk and go to bed after them. Do everything you can to create images you’re proud of and want to share. Then share them as wide as you can – on a website or just on social media, it doesn’t matter. Think of ways you can solicit feedback and then see what you can do to improve. It’s a constant learning curve. One which can be hugely rewarding when you get home and realise you’ve got something you really can’t wait to share, both with those on the trip and the wider world.

How do we make the most of the place in our shots?

Backdrop / I’ll almost always start by thinking about the landscape first and then framing my images based on what I see in front of me. If I want the landscape to be a key element in a shot, say on a trekking or a mountain biking shoot, I’ll look for things that help bring depth to a scene (e.g. something in the front, middle and back of the image) and I like to have a strong horizon, e.g a jagged mountain ridge, that will help me offset an athlete in the frame). On a surfing shoot, where the landscape may be less of a priority, I may look instead to where the waves will break in a frame, so I can position the surfer accordingly, Whereas on a shoot with lots of graceful movement, say for a capoeira shoot, I may choose to ignore the landscape altogether and focus completely on the athlete.

Position / Once I’m happy with how I’ve framed the backdrop, I’ll consider how best to position a person or persons within it. When composing an image, I like simple backdrops, with no distractions around the athlete and really clean edges to the frame (which I think is super important – having things sticking into or out of your image can be very distracting when you’re trying to focus your viewer’s attention solely on a key element). To help you picture where I add people into my shots, think of an imaginary grid. My aim usually is to position folk on the horizontal and vertical intersections, either entering or exiting the frame. But I’m not averse to placing athletes right into the middle of a scene, if I feel it looks good.

Angle / There’s no specific position I’ll put myself in when taking a shot. I do though like being above a person so I will often look out e.g. rocky outcrops that I can climb upon and take in more of the scene. If there’s nothing suitable I’m not averse to bringing a step ladder with me, if the location accommodates it. Or standing on the roof of a Land Rover. One tip I’d share would be to try and get yourself into a position that someone taking a snapshot of the scene wouldn’t think of. Get up high or lie on the ground. Do both. And then try something else. Move around and concentrate your efforts on maximising the shot potential in every scene.

And how about light?

Very simply, get up early and stay out late. Then get up early again the next day. Maximise the time you’re out shooting when the light is good. Don’t discount days when it’s really cloudy, as the sun can break through and shine magical light onto your scene in seconds. Consider adding your own light if the weather, or your vision, warrants it: for example, using a reflector or a flash to call attention to a certain part of the image, such as an athlete’s face or clothing.

Technology-wise, mobile apps such as Sunseeker are indispensable. They show the trajectory of the sun through the day, and more. When you’re researching a location, or you’re on site, think about where the sun currently is and where it’s headed. At dawn and dusk, an obvious position to place yourself would be facing east or west. If you’re shooting then, or through the day, consider positioning yourself at right angles to the sun or even shooting right into it, and see what drama it adds. Do your shots look better? There’s no right or wrong. Try things and see what happens. And endeavour to learn from them.

How do you edit down your pictures to the best images?

I have what I find to be a very efficient workflow to go from 1000s of images down to the select few I’ll deliver to a client.

Downloading / It starts as soon as I return from a shoot, when I’ll download all the images from my memory cards onto my desktop computer (though I may possibly have already backed the images up on location to my laptop computer too – I like to have redundant copies as quickly as possible). Once the images are transferred to my main working drive, I have two copies. I don’t remove the images from the memory cards until I have at least three copies elsewhere. Then I can reformat the cards and they’re ready for me to start shooting again.

Editing / To start my editing process, I’ll copy all the images from a shoot into a folder on my computer. I’ll then import the images into Lightroom and use Lightroom’s filter capability to rate them 1, 2 or 3. Once I have highlighted the 1 star images (which I’ll reject because, e.g. an athlete’s eyes are shut or I’ve captured the wrong body posture and it doesn’t make for a very dynamic image, or the image isn’t perfectly in focus), I’ll remove these both from Lightroom and my hard drive and they’re gone for good. I do this very quickly – an image either stays or goes on first glance and I don’t tend to revisit my choices.

Processing / Once I have a library of rated images, I can go through these in more detail and identify which images most meet the brief. I’ll repeat the rating process, marking on-brief images as 3 star until I have a selection of images I am happy to do some basic processing on and share with the client. Once I have a client’s selects, I’ll rate these as 4 star, complete the processing of them to suit their requirements, keyword and caption them and share them to finish the job. (5 star images are rare – I’m very picky – and usually will make their way into my website portfolio).

I’ve written a blog post about my photo workflow process and shared it on my website – I’m happy to answer any questions about it.

Printing / For a long time, I’ve used a professional print shop in England, a small business I scouted out first online then used to print lots of test images to see the quality they provided. Recently, I’ve re-branded my portfolio book and used a printer in Edinburgh. I like the idea of being able to visit a supplier to see the print process and I think it’s valuable to support local businesses.

What equipment do you typically carry?

The camera gear I carry depends on the shoot but my basic kit (say for a trekking shoot when we’ll be travelling hut to hut) would look like this: professional camera body and lenses (wide angle / telephoto), memory cards (at least x100Gb), spare batteries, Sunseeker app, dry bag, lens cloths, lens blower and chamois leather.

To this, I’ll add additional or redundant gear, e.g. an extra camera body, extra lenses, speedlights or a strobe, pocket wizard transceivers, light modifiers (e.g. a reflector or a softbox), plus anything else I think I will need, as appropriate.

I shoot with Nikon equipment (for no reason other than I like the ergonomics). I find I use the 17-35mm f2.8, the 85mm f1.8 and the 70-200mm f2.8 lenses most often. If I want to travel lighter, I’ll take a 24mm f2.8 prime lens for wide angle shots and the 85mm f1.8 for close ups. I always miss not having the 70-200m lens with me though. I love that lens.

Other items of camera equipment I might take on a shoot include a Gorillapod Focus (if I don’t want to carry a full tripod) or a monopod (which is usually instead of a light stand but I’ll need an assistant to hold it), an underwater DSLR case if we’re swimming and a Macbook or iPad, so I can tether the camera and share shots immediately with the client. In short, I’ll bring anything I think I need to meet the requirements of the brief, and beyond.

I don’t mind carrying extra gear (I can always hire someone to carry it if need be) but if the job involves me moving with the athletes, e.g. along the Black Cuillin ridge on the Isle of Skye or on a trekking stage of the Patagonian Expedition Race, I’ll definitely pair my kit down to the minimum possible. It’s very hard to keep up with folk if I don’t.

What equipment would you recommend to those starting out?

I’d recommend investing in lenses over your camera body. I started out with a consumer camera and a kit lens. When I first added a ‘fast’ lens (Nikon 17-35mm f2.8) I was blown away by the improvement in quality. What to buy depends really on what you want to shoot and where you think your images will end up. A GoPro or mobile phone can give you awesome pictures these days if you’re just posting them on social media. If however you’re committed to your photography, and want to print and perhaps sell your images, I’d recommend buying the best equipment you can afford, learn its limitations and shoot as much as possible.

Second hand / Don’t discount second-hand. Nikon’s D700 is an awesome camera for adventure photography and can be found fairly cheap online. (Cheap I appreciate being a relative term in an industry where the tiniest bit of plastic can cost you £20.00). Add a ‘fast’ prime lens (e.g. a 24mm f2.8) and you have a great, fairly lightweight (again, relatively speaking) combination for documenting the action whilst you’re on an expedition. Consider adding another small prime lens, e.g an 85mm f1.8, to give a bit of variety to the look of your shots and for portraits (especially head-shots) and to help you capture a lot of the details.

Finally, any recommended resources for budding adventure photographers?

Competition-wise, Red Bull Illume is the most famous adventure photography competition at the moment. I love viewing the selects from the Maria Luisa Memorial. They are usually very inspiring.

Away from awards, US photographers Michael Clark, Tom Bol and Dan Bailey have all written books on adventure sports photography. Corey Rich freely shares his knowledge on his website or other channels, e.g. Adorama’s YouTube page and Seattle-based Chase Jarvis is renowned for sharing his and others’ thoughts on being creative and staying competitive in business. Chase is also responsible for Creative Live, an online educational resource. Michael Clark, Lucas Gilman and Corey Rich each have courses on Creative Live where they’ll teach you about adventure photography. More generally, there’s lots of information on the internet so I’d suggest you focus your education on the areas you want to improve most and keep putting things into practice.

I wish you the best of luck. I’d love to see what you shoot!

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Buachaille Etive Mòr (The Great Herdsman of the Etive)

Photographs of the popular Scottish Munro, Buachaille Etive Mòr.

Buachaille Etive Mòr is a Munro, one of Scotland’s 282 hills over 3,000ft / 914.4m high. A common location for mountain landscape photographers is to position yourself on the lower slopes of Beinn a’Chrulaiste, a Corbett (a hill in Scotland over 2,500ft high), which has multiple options for wild camping and offers outstanding views of its more photogenic neighbour.

Although the slopes of Beinn a’Chrulaiste are by far not an original location for photographing Buachaille Etive Mòr (I’d imagine it’s the third most common view of the hill by photographers after the waterfall on the River Coupall and Blackrock Cottage), I was keen to see if I could capture the view without the A82 road or the river in view.

Buachaille Etive Mòr is a very popular hill with both hillwalkers and climbers. The most common ascent for walkers is via Coire Na Tulaich, a rocky amphitheatre on the northern slopes of the mountain (on the right in the photographs I’ve taken here). The corrie has a steep head wall and has been the scene of several avalanches over the years, sometimes fatal. The east and south-east faces of Buachaille Etive Mòr are a myriad of rocky ridges, gullies and steep buttresses which are popular with climbers and scramblers. An obvious waterslide slab, lit up by the sun in the fifth image below, is the starting point for Curved Ridge, a technical scramble (or low grade rock climb) I’ve enjoyed immensely in the past. It winds its way up the mountain just behind the left skyline before coming out at the notch beneath the top of the prominent Crowberry Tower. Other scrambles in view include North Buttress, Broad Buttress, Lagangarbh Buttress and the Northeast Ridge of Creag Coire na Tulaich, all to the left of Coire na Tulaich.

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Mountain running - Location, location, location

Some detail about three different locations I chose for a mountain running photo shoot near Chamonix in France.

Sharing the detail behind my choices of location for a running photo shoot in the French Alps working with Donnie Campbell, assisted by Rachael Campbell and Alexis Basso. More images can be found on my feature page - Donnie Campbell - Mountain running.

 

Endurance athlete Donnie Campbell is one of Britain's top ultra trail & mountain runners. Owner of a coaching business (www.getactiverunning.com), Donnie's past achievements include GB international team membership, first place race finishes in both the UK and abroad (e.g. Highland Fling and Trail du Tour des Fiz) and, between August 2020 and July 2023, he was Scotland's 282 Munro Round Record Holder. Donnie's wife, Rachael Campbell, a nurse, is also a talented mountain runner and has placed 10th female in the Mont Blanc Marathon. 

One of my first tasks was to research suitable places to take elite mountain athletes for a running photo shoot near Chamonix. Having visited the valley previously, I was fairly confident I knew of great places to go but I was keen to not just add to the large library of images from popular spots such as Lac Blanc. (Disclaimer - I did). Using tools such as Google Maps, Fatmap and the Sunseeker app enabled me to easily pinpoint a variety of potential places to visit and scope them out in great detail well in advance, investigating to see where and when the light would fall and whether the location met the needs of the brief.

Location 1 - Désert de Platé

On the day Donnie and Rachael welcomed us to Argentière and the campsite they'd been calling home for the Summer, my assistant Alexis remarked how we appeared to have brought the Scottish weather with us (a temperature of 3 degrees C was reported for the following day). Although the Chamonix valley was socked in with low cloud and drizzle, we had done our research and the weather was looking better a few days ahead so we headed north as planned to Plaine Joux and followed the route of Le Dérochoir (a fun, if initially sketchy-looking 'via ferrata' that follows a weak point up the dramatic cliffs of Rochers des Fiz and leads to Col de la Portette). Our plan was to stay overnight at Refuge de Platé and shoot sunrise shots of Donnie and Rachael playing on the amazing limestone rock landscape of Désert de Platé, with Mont Blanc in the background.

Désert de Platé was an area that had immediately sprung out when I did some location scouting online. Directly above the Chamonix valley was my first choice for trail and mountain running and when I googled possible locations, the north side of Chamonix (the Lac Blanc side) was clearly the photographer's location of choice. For good reason. The views are awesome. But I also wanted to find a location where I hadn’t seen athletes photographed so my plan for our shoot was to visit the balcony paths above in Chamonix but also to choose another location where I hadn't seen any running shots being posted. Désert de Platé, as it transpired, wasn't an entirely unique location for runners (whilst we were in Chamonix, Kilian Jornet posted a video of Seb Montaz and himself playing in the the rock crevasses) but I think we made a good choice. The cracked limestone rock offers huge potential for foreground interest in a photo shoot and the views of Mont Blanc are immense. We only had the time and the weather for a few hours shooting before heading back to Chamonix and I'd love to return and explore more.

Scottish mountain runner and Salomon-sponsored athlete Donnie Campbell running on the rocks of Désert de Platé in front of Mont Blanc, France.

Mountain athlete Donnie Campbell running at Desert de Platé near Chamonix in France with the glaciated Mont Blanc massif in the background.

 
Scottish mountain runner and Salomon-sponsored athlete Donnie Campbell running on the rocks of Désert de Platé in front of the  Chamonix Aiguilles, France.

Donnie Campbell running on the rocks of Désert de Platé in front of the Chamonix Aiguilles, France.

 
Scottish mountain runners Donnie Campbell and Rachael Campbell running in front of Mont Blanc near Chamonix, France.

Donnie Campbell and Rachael Campbell running in front of Mont Blanc near Chamonix, France.

 
Scottish mountain runner and Salomon-sponsored athlete Donnie Campbell running on the rocks of Désert de Platé in front of Mont Blanc, France.

Donnie Campbell running at Désert de Platé with Mont Blanc as a backdrop.

Location 2 - Lac Blanc

When the sun became too bright for photographs at Désert de Platé, we descended via Le Dérochoir and returned to Chamonix for lunch. Two hours later, Alex and I were on our way to 2,352m high Lac Blanc, taking advantage of the chairlifts from Les Praz to Flégère to L'Index to help alleviate some of the weight of our camera and lighting gear. Donnie and Rachael chose to run up from Argentière. The location of Lac Blanc (the 'White Lake’) is, arguably, home to the most famous views in the Alps, with thousands of photos on the internet of the scenic lake and its mountain refuge, nestled beneath the Aiguilles Rouge, with its expansive views over the Chamonix valley to famous peaks such as Aiguille du Tour, Aiguille du Chardonnet, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Dru, Grandes Jorasses, the Chamonix Aiguilles and Mont Blanc.

Donnie and Rachael met us at Refuge Lac Blanc. By the time they'd arrived, I’d already decided that early Saturday evening in August wasn’t the best time for a photo shoot at this busy location. There was an awful lot of people around the lake and the light was poor. It was too crowded for the shots I had in mind so we descended to lower Lac Blanc and prepared to shoot there. There were already photographers set up (it's a popular lake for reflections) so I took the time to check they didn’t mind if we took some running shots and received a positive response (though, regrettably, I later learnt there was a photographer I had missed and we had spoiled their time lapse). Donnie and Rachael then returned to Argentière but Alex and I bivvied out so we could shoot some mountain landscape images at dawn. We arranged to meet up again later that day.

Donnie Campbell running at lower Lac Blanc in front of Aiguille des Grands Charmoz above Chamonix in France

Donnie Campbell running at lower Lac Blanc in front of Aiguille des Grands Charmoz above Chamonix in France.

 
 
Portrait of Donnie Campbell near Lac Blanc with Mer De Glace and Mont Blanc in the background.

Portrait of Donnie Campbell near Lac Blanc with Mer De Glace and Mont Blanc in the background.

 

Location 3 - Le Brévent

Donnie and Rachael’s base in the Alps was their campervan at Camping du Glacier d’Argentière (www.campingchamonix.com). After Alex and I had descended from Lac Blanc (pleasingly, the trail popped out at a bakery in Argentière), it was nice to sit in the mid-day sun at the campsite with fresh bread and a chilled drink as we prepared for our last shoot of the trip. We had two locations in mind. A visit to Tête de Balme or Aiguillette des Posettes for a sunset view down the whole Chamonix valley or to head south-west to Brévent for a closer view of Chamonix’s aiguilles (needles) and the summit of Mont Blanc. The latter won, mainly because I love looking at Chamonix’s aiguilles (although I’ll admit not as much as nearby Aiguille du Dru which, alongside Cerro Torre and Torre Egger in Patagonia, is a mountain peak I'm confident I could happily photograph every single day).

Le Brévent is a popular destination in the Alps for Chamonix’s aerial specialists. Paragliders take off very close to the Plan Praz mid-station, taking advantage of thermals above the town, and BASE jumpers plunge from a pedestal not far from Le Brévent’s 2,525m high summit. We didn't see any BASE jumpers but we did see plenty of paragliders as we left the summit of Le Brévent and headed into a magnificent rocky playground that stretches out like one great, big, broken ridge into the distance towards Aiguilles Rouges. I was pleased with the photographs we created but also because it confirmed for me that there's huge potential for capturing adventure sports images beneath the peaks that rise above the Grand Balcon Sud, including running, hiking and scrambling photos, all with stunning views across to the big alpine peaks.

 
Scottish mountain runner and Salomon-sponsored athlete Donnie Campbell running near Le Brévent in the Mont Blanc region, Chamonix, France.

Donnie Campbell descending a rocky ridge near Le Brévent above Chamonix in France.

Mountain runner Donnie Campbell negotiating technical ground near Le Brévent, with the summit of Mont Blanc above the clouds in the background.

Donnie Campbell negotiating technical ground near Le Brévent, with the summit of Mont Blanc above the clouds in the background.

 
 
Donnie Campbell traversing a rocky ridge in front of Aiguilles Rouges above Chamonix in France.

Donnie Campbell traversing a rocky ridge in front of Aiguilles Rouges above Chamonix in France.

Donnie Campbell descending technical ground near Le Brévent above Chamonix in France.

Donnie Campbell descending technical ground on a ridge above Chamonix in France.

 

View more images from this photo shoot on my feature page - Donnie Campbell - Mountain running.

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Wild camping and photography - Bidean nam Bian

Mountain landscape photography from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

My Hilleberg Akto tent pitched on perfect grassy ground near the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland

An obvious key attribute for an outdoor photographer is good health. A few years back, after many other solutions had failed, I’d opted for surgery to address increasingly uncomfortable nerve pain I’d been experiencing in my feet when walking or running. A skilled surgeon had recommended that he fracture and re-adjust three metatarsal bones in my right foot to give the nerves a little more space. After 16 weeks recovery, I felt my foot was strong enough to cope with an easy hill walk. Keen to take advantage of a great spell of weather in Scotland, I decided to break up my first trip back with a wild camp on the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro above Glen Coe in the West Highlands of Scotland.

My recollection is, as I’d prepared my camping gear and camera equipment, I was looking forward to heading back to Glen Coe. I’ve visited the area many times before, which includes the village of Glencoe, and I’d decided to return for good reason - the landscape in such a small place is incredibly varied. Past trips include bivvying on the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan, watching beautiful clouds that filled the glens at dawn, and a bivvy on top of Am Bodach on Aonach Eagach across the glen, where I was treated to a lovely sunrise that turned the hills purple and lit up my previous sleeping spot on Stob Coire nan Lochan. (You can see these latter images in my Glen Coe and Lochaber photo essay).

My plans for this return trip were to ascend from Glen Coe into the corrie above Loch Achtriochtan, beneath Dinnertime Buttress, and continue upwards towards the steep crags of Stob Coire nam Beith before breaking off west onto the bealach beside An t-Sron. I’d then spend time creating mountain landscape before continuing up the ridge to camp for the night on the summit of Bidean nam Bian (which, at 1107m high, is the highest peak in the old county of Argyll).

The internet is the obvious valuable resource for a mountain landscape photographer. With many useful tools such as Google Maps, Google Images and the Sunseeker app (or alternatives such as Photographer’s Empheris), you can plan out in detail exactly which locations should be worth going to and when, with the huge advantage of knowing in advance where the light will fall. You can research up-front in the comfort of your home or office and, on the day, it's hopefully simply a case of being blessed with good weather.

On this occasion, I had the summits of both Stob Coire nam Beith and Bidean nam Bian all to myself. For a short while, there was two people on the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan, over a kilometre away (I think they’d scrambled up a route on Dinnertime Buttress), but when they'd gone it was just me and an uninterrupted 360-degree view I had of many of the beautiful glens, lochs and mountains that make up the Glen Coe and Lochaber region in Scotland, plus nearby Glen Etive and more. I'd read there was good ground for camping just to the west of Bidean's rocky summit and this proved correct - there's a lovely lawn-like area with minimal rocks in the ground that is an ideal place to pitch a tent. (You could also take a bivvy bag but I’d opted this time for the additional protection a tent provides due to my anticipation that I’d be blighted by that scourge of Scottish summer camping, the Scottish midge (which thankfully never materialised). I did though manage to lose a bag of semi-frozen grapes to a crow, which I'd been HUGELY looking forward to because it was very warm. There was almost a murder.

By midnight, I’d stopped taking photographs and was settled down in my sleeping bag, my alarm set for 3.00am (plus, as a precaution, 3.20am, 3.30am and 3.45am). Sunrise on this day was at 4.30am but it never really got dark and at 2.30am I popped my head out my tent to find it relatively light and with a lot of colour still in the sky. I decided I’d just get up and I was glad I did, as I spent a very special few hours in beautiful silence picking out landscapes on the horizon as the sun slowly came up, which allowed me to capture a range of mountain landscape images that I was really happy with and was Iooking forward to sharing with clients.

As for my foot? Unfortunately, it wasn’t strong enough. An innocuous slip on the way down caused me to put all my weight through it and it didn’t cope well at all. After a painful and lengthy descent (and a recommended x-ray from the hospital - which thankfully showed I hadn't re-broken it and it was likely tissue damage) I was back on the mend, although highly mindful of a friend’s advice, which is to be careful and to 'remember, you need your feet forever”.

Camera equipment

  • Nikon D4S (My Nikon D810 was in for a service)

  • Nikon 24mm f1.4

  • Nikon 70-200mm f2.8

  • Calumet wireless transmitter/receiver

  • Manfrotto Carbon Fibre tripod

  • Filters (Circulariser polariser / Graduated ND filter)

  • F-Stop Satori camera backpack

(The above forms part of my photography equipment list)

 
Looking over  the Glen Coe peaks to Schiehallion from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in Glen Coe in the West Highlands of Scotland.

View from the summit of Bidean nam Bian over the ridges of Bheinn Fhada and Buachaille Etive Beag, plus the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor, towards Schiehallion

Orange-tinged clouds at dusk looking north from the summit of Bidean nam Bian. In view is Aonach Eagach, Sgurr a’Mhaim and Am Bodach in the Mamores, plus the big 4,000+ft peaks above Glen Nevis - Ben Nevis, Carn Mor Dearg, Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag.

The summit cairn on Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

Rocks have been balanced near the summit cairn on Bidean nam Bian, one of which points towards Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak.

The small rocky cairn adorning the summit of Bidean nam Bian

The view down to Ballachulish bridge from the summit of Stob Coire nam Beith, as Loch Leven spills out into Loch Linnhe in the West Highlands of Scotland

Looking over Buachaille Etive Mor into the distance towards Schiehallion from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.

Looking over Stob Dearg summit on Buachaille Etive Mor towards Schiehallion

Looking over Aonach Eagach to Na Gruagaichean and Binnein Mor, two Munros in the Mamores, from the summit of Bidean nam Bian

Afternoon light illustrates two hikers standing on top of the scree-covered summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan

The mountain view north from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in Glen Coe in the West Highlands of Scotland

The panoramic view north from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, looking over Stob Coire nan Lochan, Aonach Eagach plus most of the Mamores to Ben Nevis (the UK's highest peak). Carn Dearg, Aonach Mor, Aonach Beag, the Grey Corries, Stob Coire Easain and Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin are also in view.

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Patagon Journal interview

An interview with Patagon Journal, Patagonia's magazine for nature, the environment, culture, travel and outdoors.

I was pleased to be invited by editor Jimmy Langman to be a judge in the annual Patagon Journal photo competition. This was after the relationship I built with Jimmy following the publication of a trekking guidebook I wrote on Patagonia’s Los Glaciares National Park. The book itself is long out of print but the experiences I had when visiting Patagonia, the challenges and rewards of researching and writing a book and having it published and the contacts I made throughout have long lasted. The thoughts I provided below for the competition were published on the Patagon Journal website.

1. You wrote a guidebook to Los Glaciares National Park. What are some of your favorite places in the park to photograph and why?

My single favourite place to photograph in Los Glaciares National Park has been Glacier Fitz Roy Norte. Access to the glacier is via Paso del Cuadrado, a small pass high above Piedra del Fraile that leads to the remote west face of Cerro Chaltén and the frankly awesome 1600m high Supercanaleta, or Super Couloir (the route of the second ascent of Chalten, by Argentinian climbers Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge, in 1965). If you don’t have the technical skills to be on a glacier, just visiting the pass itself provides you with mighty views. The great rocks walls of Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz and Cerro Chaltén to your left and the three Torres - Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt - are in front of you, the glacier far below. Paso del Cuadrado was not difficult to access when I last visited (crossing a glacier and cramponing up a steep frozen snow slope) but with warmer temperatures globally and the effect this is having on mountain regions, current conditions may mean it is more dangerous or challenging. Be confident in your mountaineering skills or I’d recommend you hire a local guide.

Not far behind Paso del Cuadrado in terms of mountain views I’d propose is Circos de los Altares, an even more remote glacial cirque that is situated beneath the ice-encrusted west face of Cerro Torre. Unless you’re a climber, and an expert one at that, the cirque is accessible only via a demanding trek up Marconi Glacier out onto the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, a great ocean of ice sweeping west from the southern coast of Chile to its border with Argentina. Up to 650 metres thick and almost 13,500 kilometres square, the ice cap is said to be one of the largest expanses of ice outside the Polar Regions.

Both of the locations above appeal to me because of the challenge required in getting there. Add to this the spectacular views and they tick two important boxes for me as regards to what I'm passionate about in photography.

2. In the current edition of Patagon Journal you have a photographic essay about travel opportunities in Scotland. What are some of the challenges to doing photography in Scotland, and how does it compare to doing photography in Patagonia?

The hardest part I’d propose about photographing outdoors in Scotland (which is parallel to photographing in Patagonia) is managing the weather. Our maritime climates are very similar and unfortunately I’m no stranger to cold, wet or windy weather (often all three). I don’t crave bright blue skies - meteorological drama in the landscape adds immeasurably to your images - but when you’ve spent many days or weeks (sometimes months) planning a photo shoot and the weather is forecast to be sideways rain and strong winds, it’s difficult to a.) manage the disappointment it’s a personal project or b.) meet the brief if it’s a client shoot. We have to either go to plan B (always have a plan B) or reschedule.

3. What are some of your favorite places or things to photograph in Patagonia, and any plans to visit Patagonia soon? Where else do you want to photograph in Patagonia?

Regrettably, I’ve no current plans to revisit Patagonia (a recent potential trip to help promote the Los Dientes de Navarino circuit on Isla Navarino unfortunately didn’t come to fruition). I’d love to come back though, either with the goal of delivering a respected brand’s advertising campaign - the potential in Patagonia for inspiring the outdoor market is superlative - but I'd also like to support conservation activity in Patagonia from a photography and story-telling perspective, helping to reduce the impact we’re having on the environment and encouraging change (although I appreciate the contradictory aspect of that statement, given I live over 8,000 miles away in Scotland).

On a personal level, mountains are my passion and anything particularly rocky or snowy piques my interest (with glaciers and small mountain lakes being an added bonus). Locations in Patagonia I’d love to visit for photography include Cordillera Darwin - for Monte Sarmiento and Monte Bove - plus Perito Moreno National Park, home of Cerro San Lorenzo (I read many years ago about an adventurous trek which circumnavigates the mountain and it regularly resurfaces in my memory). An exploratory boat trip photographing the landscape around the fjords on the western coast of Chile would be awesome, as would the opportunity to be on the crew again to photograph the Patagonian Expedition Race (the locations the race director takes competitors into are amazing). The crowning glory I’m imagining would be a in-depth photo essay on one specific area, where I could cover the mountain and coastal landscape, key flora and fauna, the people who work there and are involved in its protection, plus those that play. In that regard, Kawésqar National Park in southern Chile holds great personal appeal.

4. You have specialized in outdoor photography for many years. What are a few of your most memorable moments and images in your outdoor photography career and why (Also, please explain a little of the backstory in your answer on what was happening at the time and how you got the shot)

My most memorable photos aren’t always those I’d class as being my best work (the initial image I’ve chosen was actually before I started as a photographer).

a.) Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt from Circos de los Altares

Aside from the ‘firsts’ (first payment, first magazine publication, first cover, first advertising campaign), a particularly memorable moment - given it led to me starting my photography business - was having eight pages of pictures of Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt from Circos de los Altares in a UK magazine called High Mountain Sports. The editor had been wanting to publish a Patagonia climbing special but the capricious nature of the weather had thwarted his efforts up until that point. Fortuitously, on a trek across the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap to camp in Circos de los Altares, we had perfect weather and I was able to share images that met the magazine's needs.

A photograph which led to me starting my photography business - Cerro Standhardt, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre from Circos de los Altares on the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap.

 

b.) Kayaking with dolphins during the Patagonian Expedition Race

Team East Wind sea kayaking with dolphins on the Strait of Magellan during the Patagonian Expedition Race.

The Patagonian Expedition Race is an adventure race par excellence held in the wilderness of southern Chilean Patagonia. Teams of four are challenged to navigate a remote 700km+ course, with minimal support, that demands advanced skills in the disciplines of mountain biking, trekking, mountaineering and sea kayaking. I captured this image as Team East Wind from Japan kayaked the Straits of Magellan ahead of their final 100km mountain bike into Punta Arenas. I was aware dolphins swam in the waters, having researched the history, flora and fauna of Patagonia thoroughly for the book I’d written on trekking in Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park. I also had a feeling they would follow boats on the water, based on my understanding that dolphins are naturally inquisitive. It was a combination of this knowledge and, likely, some luck that led me to drive down a dirt road in a 4x4 along the shore as I followed the kayakers and waited for a dolphin to emerge. Every time one did, and sometimes there was more than one, a cheer arose from the team, their enthusiasm buoyed as they battled their way to a second place finish.

c.) Celebrating the dawn in Scotland

Charlie Lees early in the morning running on the Grey Corries ridge in the West Highlands of Scotland

The image I'd pictured in my head before this shoot was of a mountain runner navigating a ridge that snaked into the distance as the sun set far in the west over Ben Nevis, the UK's highest peak. I'd roped in a friend, Charlie, to help and we’d hiked up the mountain the previous afternoon so we were in a perfect position for the shoot. Unfortunately, as is often the case in Scotland, the weather didn’t play ball. The forecast was good but the light at sunset was muted by low-lying cloud and so we improvised instead, shooting a variety of shots until it got too dark. I wasn’t too concerned as we’d had the foresight to bring sleeping gear with us and we planned to spend the night on the summit so we could shoot again the following day.

The following morning, I awoke well before sunrise. I was disappointed to find the clouds were still there but a wild mountain hare, stationary not five feet from my head, buoyed my spirits. The hare and I sat in silence for a while, perhaps both of us just admiring the view, before it hopped away out of sight. My intentions were still to shoot facing west, catching my subject as the sun caught the ridge lines out to Ben Nevis. The view to the east though caught my eye and as the sun rose we turned around and focused on the opposite direction. As Charlie crested the summit, he leapt in the air slightly and I knew I had my shot. After a few repeat takes, including some without the leap, I was happy.

Capturing this image reminded me that it's best to keep an open mind and consider all options available to me when I'm executing a shoot. It also reminded me to keep an eye on an athlete’s natural traits and take advantage of them, when it’s appropriate, to produce a compelling image.

d.) Scotland 282 Munro Round Record Holder

Donnie Campbell running on the Horns of Beinn Alligin, in the North-West Highlands of Scotland

Scotland has 282 hills over 914.4m high (3,000ft) that are designated as Munros. Many if not most people (including me) take years or a lifetime to complete them all. Donnie Campbell is a running coach and endurance athlete from Scotland who, in 2020, ran all 282 peaks in just under 32 days, covering a total of 833 miles and 126,143m ascent (not including the cycling and kayaking he did to travel in between) to break the record at the time for the fastest completion of the Munros. This image, taken after the fact, showcases Donnie on the Munro Beinn Alligin in Torridon in the North-West Highlands of Scotland. It summarises what I particularly enjoy about photography - having the opportunity to illustrate someone’s athletic ability in the mountains.

e.) Backpacking Scotland's Munros

Alex Haken backpacking in the Mamores in the West Highlands of Scotland

One of the joys I find in backpacking (aside from poring over maps as you plan a trip) is staying up high in the mountains and walking right to the very end of the day, knowing you'll very likely be the only folk left on the hill. Many times over my hill-walking career I've experienced the solitude of being the 'last person standing' on a mountain. Backpacking has enabled me to camp on a number of high bealachs and summits in superb regions of Scotland such as Glen Torridon, Glen Coe, the Cairngorms and Glen Affric, as well as further afield in the Alps and Patagonia.

One of my favourite backpacking locations is the Mamores in the West Highlands of Scotland. Totalling 10 Munros (Scottish mountains over 3,000ft/ 914m high), the Mamores are grouped into 3 sets of hills, all easily tackled by a number of different routes. The central Mamores are characterised by narrow ridges, including the rocky arete on An Gearanach and the ominously named Devil's Ridge on Sgurr a'Mhaim. Shown here is us descending off the sweeping ridge of Na Gruagaichean one November, headed for a wild camp up high between An Garbhanach and Stob Coire a'Chairn. We had started our trip the previous day in Glen Nevis, planning to climb only three of the Munros but good stable weather meant we were able to continue over a fourth and put ourselves into position the next day for an easier round of the more well-known Mamore peaks that make up the Ring of Steall.

f.) Last light on the Scottish hills

Winter walking in Scotland at sunset on a Scottish Corbett

Footprints in the snow at dusk during a winter hillwalking day out on Braigh nan Uamhachan in the West Highlands of Scotland.

This photograph is of a friend of mine, David Hetherington, as we headed along the snowy ridge of the Corbett, Braigh nan Uamhachan, in the West Highlands of Scotland. For pure satisfaction, it’s right up there with others in my portfolio, captured during a weekend that ticked many boxes for what I look for in a hillwalking adventure;

  • A night in my sleeping bag - We’d stayed the evening before at Gleann Dubh-lighe bothy, a stone building with a fireplace that the Mountain Bothy Association renovated in 2013 after it was accidentally burnt down)

  • A bluebird winter’s day hiking entirely on our own up a striking peak with a narrow ridge – We'd climbed first the 909m high Corbett, Streap, which is located right across the glen

  • Pure and simple hard work - After we descended 650m to the waters of Allt Coire na Streap we had a relentlessly steep 400m ascent back up to the ridge where we are in this photograph

Add in a setting sun, which we just caught before it dipped below the horizon, the fine view we had across to Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak (top left), and a descent by head-torch down a steep gully in the dark (lured by the thought of hot food and whisky back in the bothy to finish the day) and it had all the ingredients I like to look for when I’m planning a trip away in Scotland’s hills.

g.) Celtman Extreme Triathlon

Competitors heading pre-dawn towards the swim start of the Celtman Extreme Scottish Triathlon.

An iron-distance triathlon, Celtman is part of the XTRI World Tour series of races, of which Patagonman is also a fixture. This demanding race in the Scottish Highlands challenges competitors to swim 3.4km across a tidal, jellyfish-infested sea loch, cycle 202km on scenic highlands roads and then run a marathon 42km distance over two Munros on Beinn Eighe, both over 990m high.

Photographing Celtman means being up at 3am for the 5am swim start, driving the 202km cycle route in a 4x4 vehicle and then ascending 860m to run after and photograph the triathletes on this 3km long mountain ridge.

5. What advice do you have for aspiring outdoor photographers?

The following is an excerpt from a separate article I wrote about ‘Hints and tips for capturing great outdoor sports photography’.

The six things I would suggest to focus on are;

  1. Know your camera

  2. Shoot sports you know

  3. Choose great locations

  4. Prioritise good light

  5. Try different angles

  6. Focus on composition

Key takeaway -

  • Practice and master the above until it becomes second nature so you can free yourself up to focus on your creativity, seeking out moments which can help you to stand out from the rest

  • Appreciate that, other than exposure, there’s no real right or wrong. Try different things and see what happens. Take lots of shots and share them widely. Gather feedback and keep learning and, above all, enjoy the process.

6. What will you be looking for when deciding the winning photos of the Patagonia Photo Contest? What for you is the difference between a great photo and a good photo, for example.

Why someone proclaims an outdoor sports photograph to be a ‘great photograph’ is usually a personal thing but when I see an image that really captures my attention, it’s usually because two or more things have taken place;

  • People — A dynamic moment has been captured, usually in a creative way.

  • Place — The photographer has used an inspiring location that really connects me with the scene and helps me understand what’s going on (either a location I’ve not seen before or, if I have, they’ve photographed it in a unique way).

  • Lighting — They’ve made great use of natural or artificial light to bring the image to life.

I’ll have these three things in mind when I'm reviewing the submissions, which I'm looking forward to.

7. What are some projects you are working on right now, and what projects do you hope to do in the future?

My most recent efforts have gone into re-designing my website, adding new work that I feel is worthy of sharing. I'm hoping to have this launched before the end of March.

In the Spring, I'm looking forward to continue a mountain landscape photography project focusing on the Glen Coe and Lochaber region in Scotland, rounding out what I have already with images from lower down in the glens to produce a more complete representation of the area.

Adventure sports-wise, I've got a three trail and mountain running projects on the horizon, plus a specific mountain bike photography shoot planned, where I'm planning to use strobes to make the athlete really stand out from the landscape.

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Visiting Scotland - From Chile or Argentina

Reasons for why people in Chile or Argentina may choose to visit Scotland for outdoor adventure instead of heading south to Patagonia and enjoying their own compelling landscape.

Written for and published by Patagon Journal - Patagonia's magazine for nature, the environment, culture, travel and outdoors. To support the launch of a new Destinations feature called ‘My Country’, I chose to focus on the rationale for why people in Chile or Argentina would choose to visit Scotland instead of heading south to Patagonia and enjoying their own compelling landscape.

(See also my Q&A with Patagon Journal)

Morning view from the summit of Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland

Morning view from the summit of Ben Lui, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland

The rationale for visiting Scotland for an outdoor adventure is perhaps similar to the choices you’d make for travelling to Patagonia. Northern giants of Chile and Argentina aside, when viewed on a global scale, neither of our country’s mountains are the highest (Scotland’s tallest hill, Ben Nevis, is just 1,345m/4,413ft) but they pack a punch, offering the outdoor enthusiast a multitude of opportunities for a world-class mountain adventure — in Scotland’s case, without the skills or a guide needed for a venture onto Patagonia’s glaciers.

Running, hiking and mountain biking in the Scottish Highlands is my passion. Towards the end of each year, I’ll start to relish a Winter’s season walking and mountaineering. People often find this strange, because I’m not talking about the deeply cold, snowy ‘postcard’ Winter views you may get in the arctic countries, such as Sweden or Finland, but the bone-chilling, ‘just-above-freezing and the sleet’s blowing sideways’ maritime climate that myself and many other Scottish hillwalkers rejoice in (and which Patagonia aficionados will know all very well).

Scotland’s weather has a reputation for being wet, and sometimes harsh. Regular visitors to Patagonia will be used to that. In high Summer, the weather’s often warmer than expected but you’ll appreciate a breeze to prevent you being bitten alive by the relentless Scottish midge (especially if you’re fishing on some of our famous salmon rivers, such as the River Spey or Tay). In Spring or Autumn, when I’d recommend you visit, the weather can be awesome. It’s sensible to plan to be cold and wet at times (and, in Winter, when visibility on the hills can be reduced to just metres, perhaps a little apprehensive). But this I’d propose is simply part of the fun. There’s something special about being far from the road with friends, in the middle of a storm, the only things keeping you safe being your fitness, a sensible approach to outdoor clothing and your technical skills with a map and compass (plus in Winter, the ability to use an ice axe and crampons).

The flip-side to Scotland’s Patagonia-like weather is the same beautiful quality of the light. As an outdoor photographer, I love light and Scotland doesn’t fail to deliver. The opportunities for great mountain landscape photography, or outdoor and adventure sports imagery, are wide and they more than make up for the early starts, the long drives on quiet, remote roads and the late finishes. (It’s not uncommon for me to come off the hills well after dark). Alternatively, you could choose to stay overnight and wild camp — Scottish access rights are some of the most progressive in the world. We’re fortunate we can roam freely for recreational purposes, mostly everywhere, subject to the Scottish Outdoor Access code.

After a long day out in Scotland’s hills, I’ve often exclaimed “That was borderline insane to be out in weather like that”. Or, if it was the other side of the coin, “What an awesome day to be out!”. Either way, the buzz it gives me is addictive. It could be backpacking across the Arctic-like plateau of Cairngorms National Park, scrambling along Aonach Eagach (a narrow rocky ridge above our famous Glen Coe) or fly-fishing from a rowing boat on a remote loch beneath the pre-historic peaks of Assynt. All these opportunities, and more, make Scotland a prime location for the outdoor enthusiast from Chile or Argentina. It’s definitely worth a visit.

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