Blog
Photo essay for Scottish Field - Scotland’s hills in Winter
Scottish winter photography for a ‘Scotland through a Lens’ feature in Scottish Field magazine.
Graphic Designer Grant Dickie’s choices from a selection of the photography I’d curated illustrating Scotland’s Munros and Corbetts in Winter, to support a ‘Scotland through a Lens’ feature in Scottish Field magazine, Scotland’s premier quality lifestyle publication. You can read a short Q&A Scottish Field colleague Ellie Forbes and I produced to complement the feature on the Scottish Field website.
Scotland backpacking - Glen Affric Munros
Photography from a hill walk and wild camp on the Munros in Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.
Glen Affric is a scenic national nature reserve in Scotland’s North-West Highlands, often visited for the beauty of the Caledonian pine forest that surrounds Loch Bheinn a’ Mheadhoin. For hill walkers, if you include nearby Loch Mullardoch, there are over 12 Munros (Scottish mountains over 3,000ft/914.4m high) within a 13km square location. Our objective was to ascend two of these Munros, Càrn Eige and Beinn Fhionnlaidh, before pitching our tent on the summit of a third, Màm Sodhail. The cloud inversion we experienced through the day - the result of warmer temperatures up high and colder below - was an unexpected bonus.
Winter hillwalking in Scotland — What to take
My clothing and equipment list for winter hillwalking in Scotland’s Munro mountains.
A companion post to my Scottish Winter camping kit list, with some updated thinking on clothing. As before, it’s not a super lightweight gear list but I’m proposing my choices are a good balance between weight and durability.
Scottish Winter weather can be unforgiving. Having the right clothing and equipment helps to make it safer and more enjoyable.
There’s two quotes I recall that I relate to Winter walking in Scotland, one which is “There’s no such thing as winter hillwalking, it’s all mountaineering” and the other being “On the coldest moment of the trip, if you aren’t wearing everything you brought, you brought too much”. (The latter to which I’d propose adding “Unless you're too cold”).
Winter walking in Scotland’s Munro hills is hugely fun, if you’re prepared for the mixed and often wild weather that will be thrown at you (which is indeed part of the fun). The below is a list of things i like to carry to help keep it that way. On top of this is navigating carefully and being hill fit so I can expend the least amount of energy across the ground I’ll cover, with the start of every year reminding me that deep, soft snow is really difficult to travel through.
Wear
Underwear — I prefer Merino wool for its odour-prevention properties and warmth. A heavier material helps to keep everything warm.
Trousers — Powerstretch tights are ideal, if not overly flattering these days as they’re super tight (tights). I have a looser pair of Karrimor Powerstretch leggings with pockets that are 20 years old and have many small holes in them but I’ve found nothing better. Soft-shell trousers are popular but are often fairly heavy. If you don’t mind wearing your waterproof trousers all day, a decent fleece layer may be all you need.
Socks — Wool is best, I’d propose, with Bridgedale’s 4-season models fitting me perfectly in size 11
Boots — I use La Sportiva’s Nepal Extremes for the warmth (a friend rates Scarpa’s Mont Blanc Pro model). Both however are what’s termed as B3 boots and are overkill for basic hillwalking. Ask your local outdoor shop about for B1 and B2 rated boots (such as Scarpa Mantas, which I’ve always rated but they are now more tech-orientated and I’ve not used them for a long time). I’d then suggest that you buy any suitable boots from that shop, rather than online, so the business is still there the next time you need advice.
T-shirt — Merino wool for me (Artilect’s M-Sprint which, at 115gsm, is super light and dries fast). I’ll add a long sleeve version or a 100-weight fleece top if it’s colder.
Arm warmers — Unusual for hillwalking, I imagine - more used for cycling - but I generate a lot of heat and when wearing a short sleeve base layer I find them excellent for keeping my arms warm and my core cool. (I use a pair from Endura, made from Powerstretch-style fleece).
Windshirt — I rate Patagonia’s Houdini windproof because it’s got a hood, but it would be better if it had cinch cords at the front. You can use your shell jacket instead and save carrying that weight but a windproof is much more breathable.
Hat — I prefer a thin nylon head-band (Dynafit) as it allows heat to escape from the top of my head - anything fleece or wool is too hot for me to walk in. If I choose a hat, Vaga’s Club Cap has an uncanny ability to not blow off my head, despite strong gales.
Gloves — Rab Powerstretch or Montane Trail Lite gloves I find to be an excellent first layer, with more protective pairs carried in my pack
Warmth
Fleece or softshell jacket — I still rate Rab’s Winter Guide jacket but it was discontinued back in 2022. It’s very heavy (850gm) but it has a nice ‘bomb-proof’ feeling about it when I put it on (as long as there’s a windproof layer on top - I find the Vapour-Rise fabric, despite Rab’s marketing claims, to be not very windproof at all). There was a later version which was a bit lighter but I imagine you’d always prefer to be wearing one than carrying it. The current (2024) Vapour-Rise Summit jacket unfortunately I find too light and a middle option might be Patagonia’s Nano-Air Hoody, but it’s expensive and a thick 200 weight fleece will definitely do (I used a Berghaus Spectrum pullover for many years).
Insulated jacket — A jacket to keep me warm when I’m stopped and for wearing in the worst weather. I’d recommend Rab’s Generator Alpine for a good forecast and for backpacking and Mountain Equipment’s Citadel jacket for a day walk, or perhaps their Fitzroy model as a ‘do it all’ alternative. If I’m planning to be a long way from the road, I’ll also consider a pair of Mountain Equipment Compressor Pants.
Buff — Any model will do. I have a Celtman-branded one, which is made of a shiny nylon, plus a cycling one from Castelli, which is more like a thin fleece. I prefer the latter.
Balaclava — Powerstretch again. Lots of head protection in a light package.
Gloves — I’m wearing gloves, as above, but they’re thin and not windproof so they’re best suited for lower down. Waterproof gloves are an option for a heavier layer but I’ve always found when they get wet they stay wet (sometimes for days afterwards). My current choice is a Mountain Equipment Randonee glove, a soft-shell glove with a pile inner which I’ve found to be excellent. If they do get too wet, I can just squeeze the water out of them.
Insulated mitts and outers — I like a third layer for my hands, for emergency purposes. My preference would be a pair of thick Primaloft mitts, such Mountain Equipment’s Citadel Mitts, but they don’t fit me and their Fitzroy model Mountain Equipment no longer make. I’ve not yet found any suitable alternatives. I’m using instead a long-discontinued pair of sheepskin mitts from Extremities that have a separate, thick outer waterproof shell. They’re not light but they’ve proved themselves to be more than warm enough during a very long open Winter bivvy.
Wet
Waterproof top - I switch between a Mountain Equipment Lhotse and a Montane Ajax depending on the moisture expected. (The former is a neater fit so I wear a belay jacket over the top. The latter I can fit underneath my shell jacket in wet weather if need be). I don’t think you’d go wrong with the 3-layer versions from Montane, Rab or Mountain Equipment, all of which have hoods they have optimised for UK Winter weather. (The protection from any hood I’d propose shouldn’t be underestimated).
Waterproof bottoms - Berghaus’ Goretex Paclite Pants I’d propose are a good balance between too heavy and too light. The assumption being you’ll be walking with a good forecast. Goretex Paclite Plus or 3-layer Goretex are the more bombproof options for livelier weather.
Gaiters — Essential for wet ground and/or when there’s lots of fresh snow around. I prefer to wear gaiters these days rather than carry them, using a comfortable older pair from Rab.
Hydration
Water bottle — Treadlite Gear’s bottle pouches give me access to water up front without taking my pack off, similar to a running vest. Their marketing says the pouches can accommodate up to a 750ml water bottle. I switch between a 600ml Smart water bottle and a 500ml Nalgene. I’ll also carry a 1-litre Nalgene, which I find simple to use with big gloves on. Arguably you don’t need both, but I like to keep hydrated.
Flask — If I’m on my own, I’ll likely bin the pouches up front and take an MSR Windburner stove because the weight is equal, sans the liquid, and I can use it more than once. When I’m walking with others, few wish to sit around in the cold waiting for a stove to boil so I’ll take a Thermos Ultimate flask for a hot drink (my preference being diluted orange juice with a pinch of salt).
Safety
Minimum;
Map / waterproof case — Essential and I’ll take two maps in Winter so I have a spare.
Compass — You likely won’t need two compasses but I lost one once - it came off around my neck - so I carry a lightweight spare (Silva Field). Their Expedition 4 model is my first choice.
Headtorch — I use Petzl’s Nao+ model, with either one or two batteries depending on how far I plan to be from the road. I might also take a Petzl Bindi as a backup.
Phone — I’d recommend downloading the Sarloc app, which was developed by Russ Hore, a former Mountain Rescue team member, plus registering your phone for calling 999 by text, i.e. emergency SMS. Modern mobile phones are highly water resistant but I’ll always carry it in a dry bag or waterproof case, and either turn it off or keep it somewhere close to my core so it’s warm and the battery doesn’t die quickly. (Airplane mode is your friend).
Ice axe — Petzl’s Summit 59cm is my default ice axe but if I don’t anticipate needing it, or using it very much, I’ll carry a very lightweight Petzl Ride, accepting a risk that it’s not optimal for ice axe arrest
Crampons — I have an old pair of Grivel G12 crampons, which are blunt and heavy. I’ve sharpened them many times but the latest G12s, and other models such as Petzl’s Vasak crampons are attractive, as they’re much lighter. Ten point crampons such as Grivel’s G10 might also meet your needs.
Blizzard bag — Blizzard’s Active Range (2-layer) I feel is a good choice for the Scottish Highlands. I have the survival bag but I imagine in a true emergency scenario I’d be cutting it into a blanket (picturing it would be difficult to get me or someone else inside with, e.g. a broken leg or ankle).
Bothy bag — It could be argued this isn’t required if you have a Blizzard Bag but I’d never go out without both. The protection you can get from a bothy bag (having sat in one for over 12 hours, wishing I had a blanket as well) is remarkable. I’ll carry either Terra Nova’s 2-man bothy, or if the forecast is benign possibly a Supalite Bothy Bag.
Ski goggles — I have a cheap pair which I’ve had to glue the foam back on a few times. Spending money on a decent pair would be sensible but googles are something I’ve found I rarely need to use, and the ones I have are functional, so I’ve never got round to it.
Recommended;
OS Maps app — Amazing, easy to use app as a back-up to your map and compass and a bargain as regards to price versus benefit.
Watch — I use a Garmin Fenix 5 model which I’ve programmed to display my grid reference, altitude, distance walked and speed on the front screen, which I find invaluable. Occasionally, I’ll upload a GPX file I can follow if need be, depending on the complexity of the route.
Garmin inReach — I like going out on my own and having a means of communicating back home is useful, as is the emergency response capability, for absolute worst case scenarios. The latest Apple iPhones have satellite messaging, which could be argued makes an inReach redundant, but the battery life is much longer and I’m happy to carry both as I don’t like to rely on a single such safety item. Garmin’s 2024 cost model changes, so you only have to pay monthly for the emergency element (with e.g. texts and weather forecasts chargeable), is ideal for my purposes and makes it a lot more affordable (handset cost aside).
Powerbank — Essential if you’re using all the technology above. I use Nitecore’s 10,000 power brick (10,000mAh = 6,400mAh) and the appropriate cables to charge my watch mostly, plus my iPhone and inReach.
Trekking poles — Walking poles make travelling in snow so much easier, as well as river crossings. I’m currently using a pair of Alpkit Carbon Marathon poles. They aren’t bombproof - I’ve broken one pole and the clasp came loose on another - but they’re fairly robust and nice and light.
Personal care
Suncream — SP50+ is the minimum I consider taking outdoors. I’ve been quite badly sunburnt three times and I have no wish to have this happen again.
First aid kit — I’m always considering risk in Winter and my aim is to need no first aid but I’ll always carry a decent-sized kit that covers blisters, mild to heavy bleeding and breaks. Anything major, especially if I’m on my own, is going to warrant emergency decision-making.
Nose/lip balm — Not essential by any means but my nose runs constantly outside in the Winter (okay, from October) and this saves me have chapped skin for days afterwards
Photography
In addition to the above, I’ll choose from one of the items below for photography;
Mobile phone — Occasionally I’ll rely solely on my phone (e.g. if the weather forecast is poor and I don’t expect to do anything with the photos) but I prefer to keep it for emergency purposes
Sony RX100 — A great balance between lightweight and quality outcomes. I’ll carry a spare memory card, battery, dry bag and Lenspen. Difficult to use as anything other than a point and shoot with big gloves on but not impossible.
Nikon D810 - Love it but it’s heavy with a 24-70mm f2.8 lens attached (and sometimes a 70-200mm f2.8 in my bag) so I’ll keep it for when I anticipate good photography opportunities (which doesn’t mean blue skies, stormy weather is much more interesting). There’s no need for me to carry a spare battery unless I’m out for a few days.
GoPro Hero 8 — The opposite to the above in that it needs lots of batteries (x3 at least for a winter’s day out and even then I’m caught short when the battery gets cold and it dies in minutes). I’d like the Hero 9 or later, which are compatible with GoPro’s Enduro battery, which has a vastly better battery life in cold weather.
Are you new to going out in Winter?
I’d recommend Mountaineering Scotland’s ‘Think WINTER’ campaign, especially the sections on Navigation, Skills and Avalanche.
Still the windiest day out I’ve had on a Scottish hillside, where we were driven to our knees on a 25-degree slope. Only Patagonia has come close.
Wild camping and photography - Beinn an Aodainn
Sunrise from a wild camp on the summit of Beinn an Aodainn in the Knoydart peninsula of Scotland.
Part of a Wild camping and photography series.
Beinn an Aodainn (also known as Ben Aden) is a Corbett in the North-West Highlands of Scotland. It’s located in Knoydart which is roughly 25 miles north-west of Fort William as the crow flies. A typically rugged landscape, it’s a long way from the nearest road.
Scotland’s Knoydart peninsula is commonly promoted as a ‘Last Great Wilderness’. I don’t believe this to be true (you can reach it by ferry, there’s a public house and there’s many man-made tracks and paths that aid your travel) but I do believe that another term for it - ‘The Rough Bounds’ - is highly accurate. The prevailing rocky or tussocky ground, and relentlessly steep slopes, makes for taxing hillwalking, especially with a heavy backpack (or - on two occasions where I’d initially thought I was fortunate to have blue skies - when you’re being baked under a relentless sun). Add to this a long walk from the nearest entry points to get to the foot of the peak - the shortest for Beinn an Aodainn is three hours - and you’re faced with some of the toughest hillwalking in Scotland. It’s a gold mine though for backpacking and camping.
This was my fifth time visiting Knoydart, having previously walked in from both Kinloch Hourn and Glen Shiel, taken the ferry in from Inverie and sea kayaked in along Loch Hourn. My friend had four hills left to do on his Corbett round - having completed all his Munros - and I’m slowly ticking off all my Munros. Garbh Chioch Mhor and Sgurr nan Coireachan are two of just three I’ve not done in these parts with the other being Meall Buidhe, which I’d bypassed back in 2011 due to nerve issues in my foot.
On that 2011 trip, we ticked off most of Knoydart’s Munros and Corbetts, including Beinn na Caillich, Ladhar Bheinn, Luinne Bheinn, Beinn an Aodainn and Sgurr na Ciche. On another trip I climbed Beinn Bhuidhe and on a different visit, we ascended Sgurr nan Eugallt and the Graham, Slat Bheinn, before topping out on Sgurr a'Choire-bheithe. Our plan that day was to do Beinn an Aodainn as well, negating the need for this current trip, but the length of our route, heat exhaustion, the late time of day and a plague of horse-flies all tallied up to us choosing to miss it out. The best things though, as is said, often come to those who wait.
Getting there
Our starting point for Beinn an Aodainn was near Kinloch Hourn, which is around 1h 40 mins travel from Fort William by car, or perhaps a taxi if you’re doing a through-route (see this Weekend Wonder: Ladhar Bheinn feature for more options). We walked along the shores of Loch Cuaich / Loch Quoich on a mostly boggy and very overgrown track, for approximately 3 hours, before heading first towards Lochan nam Breac and then into the corrie, following Allt Coire na Cruaiche to reach Bealach na h Eangair (following the route as described by Walk Highlands). We were on the summit of Beinn an Aodainn in just under six hours.
Camping-wise, there’s relatively few spaces I saw to put a tent on the summit of Beinn an Aodainn but we easily got two pitches and there looked to be places off to the north-west as well. I’d recommend taking a soft flask with a filter as there are numerous small lochans near the summit you can take advantage of. Otherwise (and probably also in drought conditions) you’ll need to carry all your water up the hill.
Camera equipment
Sony RX100 Mark V - I considered taking my full-frame camera but we had three Munros to do after this summit so I decided that the lighter the equipment I carried the better. (View more of my Sony RX100 images here).
The walk in along Loch Cuaich
Looking back to Loch Cuaich from the ascent of Beinn an Aodainn. Our starting point was the far shoreline, out of sight to the left.
Bealach na h Eangair, with Loch Nevis visible between Sgurr na Ciche and Beinn an Aodainn (Click to view larger)
Loch Nevis from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn
Rock towers near the summit of Beinn an Aodainn
The rising sun behind a cloud-covered Loch Cuaich from the summit of Beinn an Aodainn (Click to view larger)
Early morning clouds dispersing from the shores of Loch Cuaich
Wild camping and photography - Beinn Laoigh
Photography from a summit camp on Beinn Laoigh, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.
Part of a Wild camping and photography series.
Looking over to Ben Laoigh's rocky east ridge and Coire Goathach from Ben Oss
Beinn Laoigh, commonly known as Ben Lui, is a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland. Located c.8km from the village of Tyndrum, the peak is seen often from the A85 roadside, it’s fine horseshoe-shaped northern corrie, Coire Goathach, providing a commanding view for passing traffic, especially so in when it’s in full winter conditions.
A winter ascent of Beinn Laoigh from the east, up the classic Central Gully, had long been my plan but my only previous ascent of Beinn Laigh was in 2001, from Glen Lochy in the west due to an outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease in the United Kingdom. I’ve not climbed Central Gully - and likely won’t as my appetite for winter climbing has waned as I’ve got older - but on this occasion it wasn’t possible as a winter climb as there was no snow of note, despite being December. What had piqued my interest was a temperature differential of greater than twelve degrees, with the forecast for Tyndrum at 232m being below freezing conditions and Beinn Laoigh’s summit (at 1130m) forecast for plus 12 degrees Celsius - a classic recipe for a cloud inversion.
Cloud inversions, or more accurately temperature inversions, I understand are relatively rare. Most common in the colder months of the year, they’re caused - in my super simple terms - when the air temperature at lower altitudes is colder than the air at higher altitudes, which causes a layer of fog to form beneath you as you climb a mountain. I’ve popped out of the fog before on a Munro to find myself above a cloud inversion, which is great, but I much prefer waking up on the summit of a peak with the clouds beneath me.
Getting there
I travelled from Edinburgh to Glasgow Queen Street by train (Scotrail) and then took an onwards connection from Glasgow Central to Tyndrum on the Fort William line. From Tyndrum, the common route to Beinn Laoigh is a long (c.9km) but straight-forward walk from Dalrigh up Glen Cononish, home of a gold mine, to the foot of Coire Goathach, which I followed for a while but, because I was ticking off Munros on my Munro round, I broke off early up the steep south-west slopes of Beinn Dubhcraig to climb Ben Oss first. Heading south-west from Ben Oss and then north-north-west up the flanks of Beinn Laoigh to its summit felt somewhat adventurous but it was mainly a lot of hard work, especially with camping and photography gear. I arrived at the summit at 4pm, just as the sun was going down, and I pitched my tent just off the summit, at a small area of grass which I imagine is the only possible place on this fine rocky mountain to put a tent.
Camera equipment
Nikon D810
Nikon 24-70mm F2.8
Lowepro Toploader AW 75
The moon rising above the waters of Glen Cononish, which eventually flow into Loch Tay
Wild camping on the summit of Beinn Laoigh
The view south from Beinn Laoigh summit towards the Arrochar Alps, as the sun sets
Ben Cruachan and Stob Daimh from the summit of Beinn Laoigh
Looking over Beinn a' Chleibh towards the Paps of Jura
A cloud inversion fills Glen Cononish beneath the east ridge of Beinn Laoigh
A cloud inversion fills Glen Cononish as seen from the rocky summit of Beinn Laoigh
The slopes of Beinn Chuirn, a Corbett above the gold mine in Glen Cononish, and beyond towards Glen Lochy
A large split rock on the summit of Beinn Laoigh gives a commanding view down a cloud-filled Glen Cononish
Descending into the clouds on the return to Tyndrum
Charlie Lees - Mountain running
Charlie Lees running on the Grey Corries ridge in Lochaber, West Highlands of Scotland.
Professor Charlie Lees is a well-respected consultant gastroenterologist at the Western General Hospital, Edinburgh and honorary senior lecturer at the University of Edinburgh. We’re on location on the Grey Corries Munros in the West Highlands of Scotland.
Wild camping and photography - Màm Sodhail
Overnight on Màm Sodhail, a Munro above Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland.
Part of a Wild camping and photography series. (View more images from this Glen Affric backpacking trip in a separate blog)
The moon rises behind the ridge leading out from Mam Sodhail to Sgùrr na Lapaich
As I’d packed for a weekend’s backpacking with a friend in November, in Glen Affric in the North-West Highlands of Scotland, I realised that I hadn’t missed the weight of a DSLR camera, especially on top of the 12kg of hillwalking and camping equipment I was planning to carry.
Throughout the summer season I’d been illustrating my outdoor activities with a light-weight Sony RX100 compact camera, photographing trail running routes in Edinburgh’s Pentland Hills plus some attempts I’d made on Tranter's round in Glen Nevis. It was a change therefore to be carrying a professional DSLR up and down hills again. The image quality and usability of my work models - a Nikon D810 in this case - is streets ahead compared to my Sony and I was banking on the photographic opportunities a favourable high pressure forecast, squeezed in between two periods of low, looked to offer. Old-school DSLRs and professional lenses however aren’t light and I was conscious I was adding an extra 2kg to the weight of my pack for a trip that we'd mapped out as 40km distance over two days, with 2100m ascent.
The weight penalty of professional camera equipment I felt was worth it on this occasion. Glen Affric is often referred to as one of Scotland’s most scenic glens and the Walk Highlands website describes two of the peaks we'd chosen for our backpacking trip - Càrn Eige and Màm Sodhail - as the "highest mountains north of the Great Glen and spectacular viewpoints". Both mountains are Munros, two of the 282 Scottish peaks over 3,000ft high that are listed in Hugh Munro’s tables, with Mam Sodhail, or the ‘Hill of the Barns’, being the smaller of the two by just two metres, standing 1181m tall.
We’d started our trip the previous day at a car park in Glen Affric, camping c.6km from the car on what I imagined were the only two pieces of dry ground that day in Gleann nam Fiadh. The terrain was drier higher up and, in the morning, as we admired the golden colours of the landscape - it was abnormally autumnal weather for November - we ascended Coire Mhic Fhearchair and headed for Sròn Garbh and the rocky ridge that leads from Stob Coire Dhomhnuill onto Càrn Eige. From there we summited Beinn Fhionnlaidh and retraced our steps, our plan being to continue over Màm Sodhail towards another nearby Munro, An Socach, and camp on a bealach beneath that peak, ascending An Socach for our fourth Munro of the trip the following morning.
I distinctly recall standing beside Màm Sodhail's huge summit cairn, pondering the views Càrn Eige and Màm Sodhail were said to offer. We couldn’t see much at all but neither of us were even remotely disappointed. Since lunchtime, a thick blanket of cloud had filled the glens beneath us, 360 degrees around. It stretched as far as our eyes could see - at least all the way to Fort William in one direction, almost 100km away. Camping above a cloud inversion is not something I’ll ever turn down and we easily made the decision to stop for the day, much earlier than planned, pitching our tents about 3.30pm as the sun started to dip towards the horizon. Settling in to take in the glorious view we had above the clouds, I thought of the many times I had walked and camped in poor weather. These were special moments indeed. (If it’s any consolation, on exiting our tents the following morning, we found ourselves to be completely within these clouds, with absolutely no views at all).
Getting there
For Glen Affric, head south out of Inverness on the A82 toward Drumnadrochit. Take the A831 towards Cannich and then continue south-west along Glen Affric to reach the car park at grid reference NH215242. For Càrn Eige and Màm Sodhail, take the track through the woods which leads you first west and then north into Gleann nam Fiadh. Alternatively, drive further up Glen Affric and park at GR N201234, follow the track along the northern side of Loch Affric and ascend via Coire Leachavie.
Camera equipment
Nikon D810
Nikon 24-70mm F2.8
Lowepro Toploader AW 75
Mam Sodhail's large summit cairn
Wild camping on the summit of Màm Sodhail
Sgurr na Lapaich peaks out above the clouds
Clouds lap over the bealach between Màm Sodhail and Càrn Eige
Gleann nam Fiadh filled with clouds between Carn Eige and Sgurr na Lapaich
Looking over the Glen Shiel peaks towards Ben Nevis on the far horizon
Donnie Campbell - Mountain running
A portfolio of images of Donnie Campbell, a Scottish running coach and mountain endurance athlete.
Donnie Campbell is a mountain endurance athlete from Scotland (also a running coach - GetActiveRunning.com) who is sponsored by Salomon and other brands such as Suunto. A former Royal Marine Commando, Donnie was once Scotland’s Munro Round Record Holder, after running 833 miles and climbing 126,143m to summit all 282 Munros in 2020 in a blistering time of 31 days, 23 hours and 02 minutes, which included cycling and kayaking between the hills. Just one of a number of Donnie’s long-distance running achievements, it’s Donnie’s Munro Round (plus his completion of the 90km/8,500m ascent of the Charlie Ramsay Round in Winter) that impresses me most. A Scottish hillwalker for many years, I can easily relate to the playground Donnie was operating within but rather than what I expected that experience might give me, which is an appreciation of the mental toughness and physical strength it required to achieve it, I found it did nothing greater than make me gape at the size of the gulf that’s between us. Donnie’s endurance endeavours in the mountains have however encouraged me to expand my own horizons, such as teaching myself how to move more efficiently over longer distances in my local Pentland Hills, increasing the number of Munros I can summit in a single go (the most at present being 18) and been a major influence on what’s proving to be my long-term passion project outside of photography, attempting Philip Tranter’s Round.
Select work
Torridon
Cairngorms National Park
Ben Starav
Chamonix
Isle of Skye
Inverness
Scotland winter walking - Driesh and Mayar
Four seasons in one day on a snowy winter day walk in Cairngorms National Park, Scotland
Driesh and Mayar are two Munros (Scottish mountains over 3,000ft / 914.4m high), located above the north-west end of Glen Clova in Cairngorms National Park, Scotland. A visit to the summit of both peaks makes for a fine Winter’s day out as long as you’re prepared. Even on sunny days, visibility (and temperature) in Scotland’s hills can reduce dramatically and the right clothing and equipment, plus technique, along with expert use of map and compass are all essential elements to stay safe.
Mountain running - Location, location, location
Some detail about three different locations I chose for a mountain running photo shoot near Chamonix in France.
Sharing the detail behind my choices of location for a running photo shoot in the French Alps working with Donnie Campbell, assisted by Rachael Campbell and Alexis Basso. More images can be found on my blog - Donnie Campbell - Mountain running.
Endurance athlete Donnie Campbell is one of Britain's top ultra trail & mountain runners. Owner of a coaching business (www.getactiverunning.com), Donnie's past achievements include GB international team membership, first place race finishes in both the UK and abroad (e.g. Highland Fling and Trail du Tour des Fiz) and, between August 2020 and July 2023, he was Scotland's 282 Munro Round Record Holder. Donnie's wife, Rachael Campbell, a nurse, is also a talented mountain runner and has placed 10th female in the Mont Blanc Marathon.
One of my first tasks was to research suitable places to take elite mountain athletes for a running photo shoot near Chamonix. Having visited the valley previously, I was fairly confident I knew of great places to go but I was keen to not just add to the large library of images from popular spots such as Lac Blanc. (Disclaimer - I did). Using tools such as Google Maps, Fatmap and the Sunseeker app enabled me to easily pinpoint a variety of potential places to visit and scope them out in great detail well in advance, investigating to see where and when the light would fall and whether the location met the needs of the brief.
Location 1 - Désert de Platé
On the day Donnie and Rachael welcomed us to Argentière and the campsite they'd been calling home for the Summer, my assistant Alexis remarked how we appeared to have brought the Scottish weather with us (a temperature of 3 degrees C was reported for the following day). Although the Chamonix valley was socked in with low cloud and drizzle, we had done our research and the weather was looking better a few days ahead so we headed north as planned to Plaine Joux and followed the route of Le Dérochoir (a fun, if initially sketchy-looking 'via ferrata' that follows a weak point up the dramatic cliffs of Rochers des Fiz and leads to Col de la Portette). Our plan was to stay overnight at Refuge de Platé and shoot sunrise shots of Donnie and Rachael playing on the amazing limestone rock landscape of Désert de Platé, with Mont Blanc in the background.
Désert de Platé was an area that had immediately sprung out when I did some location scouting online. Directly above the Chamonix valley was my first choice for trail and mountain running and when I googled possible locations, the north side of Chamonix (the Lac Blanc side) was clearly the photographer's location of choice. For good reason. The views are awesome. But I also wanted to find a location where I hadn’t seen athletes photographed so my plan for our shoot was to visit the balcony paths above in Chamonix but also to choose another location where I hadn't seen any running shots being posted. Désert de Platé, as it transpired, wasn't an entirely unique location for runners (whilst we were in Chamonix, Kilian Jornet posted a video of Seb Montaz and himself playing in the the rock crevasses) but I think we made a good choice. The cracked limestone rock offers huge potential for foreground interest in a photo shoot and the views of Mont Blanc are immense. We only had the time and the weather for a few hours shooting before heading back to Chamonix and I'd love to return and explore more.
Mountain athlete Donnie Campbell running at Desert de Platé near Chamonix in France with the glaciated Mont Blanc massif in the background.
Donnie Campbell running on the rocks of Désert de Platé in front of the Chamonix Aiguilles, France.
Donnie Campbell and Rachael Campbell running in front of Mont Blanc near Chamonix, France.
Donnie Campbell running at Désert de Platé with Mont Blanc as a backdrop.
Location 2 - Lac Blanc
When the sun became too bright for photographs at Désert de Platé, we descended via Le Dérochoir and returned to Chamonix for lunch. Two hours later, Alex and I were on our way to 2,352m high Lac Blanc, taking advantage of the chairlifts from Les Praz to Flégère to L'Index to help alleviate some of the weight of our camera and lighting gear. Donnie and Rachael chose to run up from Argentière. The location of Lac Blanc (the 'White Lake’) is, arguably, home to the most famous views in the Alps, with thousands of photos on the internet of the scenic lake and its mountain refuge, nestled beneath the Aiguilles Rouge, with its expansive views over the Chamonix valley to famous peaks such as Aiguille du Tour, Aiguille du Chardonnet, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Dru, Grandes Jorasses, the Chamonix Aiguilles and Mont Blanc.
Donnie and Rachael met us at Refuge Lac Blanc. By the time they'd arrived, I’d already decided that early Saturday evening in August wasn’t the best time for a photo shoot at this busy location. There was an awful lot of people around the lake and the light was poor. It was too crowded for the shots I had in mind so we descended to lower Lac Blanc and prepared to shoot there. There were already photographers set up (it's a popular lake for reflections) so I took the time to check they didn’t mind if we took some running shots and received a positive response (though, regrettably, I later learnt there was a photographer I had missed and we had spoiled their time lapse). Donnie and Rachael then returned to Argentière but Alex and I bivvied out so we could shoot some mountain landscape images at dawn. We arranged to meet up again later that day.
Donnie Campbell running at lower Lac Blanc in front of Aiguille des Grands Charmoz above Chamonix in France.
Portrait of Donnie Campbell near Lac Blanc with Mer De Glace and Mont Blanc in the background.
Location 3 - Le Brévent
Donnie and Rachael’s base in the Alps was their campervan at Camping du Glacier d’Argentière (www.campingchamonix.com). After Alex and I had descended from Lac Blanc (pleasingly, the trail popped out at a bakery in Argentière), it was nice to sit in the mid-day sun at the campsite with fresh bread and a chilled drink as we prepared for our last shoot of the trip. We had two locations in mind. A visit to Tête de Balme or Aiguillette des Posettes for a sunset view down the whole Chamonix valley or to head south-west to Brévent for a closer view of Chamonix’s aiguilles (needles) and the summit of Mont Blanc. The latter won, mainly because I love looking at Chamonix’s aiguilles (although I’ll admit not as much as nearby Aiguille du Dru which, alongside Cerro Torre and Torre Egger in Patagonia, is a mountain peak I'm confident I could happily photograph every single day).
Le Brévent is a popular destination in the Alps for Chamonix’s aerial specialists. Paragliders take off very close to the Plan Praz mid-station, taking advantage of thermals above the town, and BASE jumpers plunge from a pedestal not far from Le Brévent’s 2,525m high summit. We didn't see any BASE jumpers but we did see plenty of paragliders as we left the summit of Le Brévent and headed into a magnificent rocky playground that stretches out like one great, big, broken ridge into the distance towards Aiguilles Rouges. I was pleased with the photographs we created but also because it confirmed for me that there's huge potential for capturing adventure sports images beneath the peaks that rise above the Grand Balcon Sud, including running, hiking and scrambling photos, all with stunning views across to the big alpine peaks.
Donnie Campbell descending a rocky ridge near Le Brévent above Chamonix in France.
Donnie Campbell negotiating technical ground near Le Brévent, with the summit of Mont Blanc above the clouds in the background.
Donnie Campbell traversing a rocky ridge in front of Aiguilles Rouges above Chamonix in France.
Donnie Campbell descending technical ground on a ridge above Chamonix in France.
View more images from this photo shoot on my blog - Donnie Campbell - Mountain running.
Wild camping and photography - Bidean nam Bian
Mountain landscape photography from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland.
Part of a Wild camping and photography series.
My Hilleberg Akto tent pitched on perfect grassy ground near the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland
An obvious key attribute for an outdoor photographer is good health. A few years back, after many other solutions had failed, I’d opted for surgery to address increasingly uncomfortable nerve pain I’d been experiencing in my feet when walking or running. A skilled surgeon had recommended that he fracture and re-adjust three metatarsal bones in my right foot to give the nerves a little more space. After 16 weeks recovery, I felt my foot was strong enough to cope with an easy hill walk. Keen to take advantage of a great spell of weather in Scotland, I decided to break up my first trip back with a wild camp on the summit of Bidean nam Bian, a Munro above Glen Coe in the West Highlands of Scotland.
My recollection is, as I’d prepared my camping gear and camera equipment, I was looking forward to heading back to Glen Coe. I’ve visited the area many times before, which includes the village of Glencoe, and I’d decided to return for good reason - the landscape in such a small place is incredibly varied. Past trips include bivvying on the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan, watching beautiful clouds that filled the glens at dawn, and a bivvy on top of Am Bodach on Aonach Eagach across the glen, where I was treated to a lovely sunrise that turned the hills purple and lit up my previous sleeping spot on Stob Coire nan Lochan. (You can see these latter images in my Glen Coe and Lochaber photo essay).
My plans for this return trip were to ascend from Glen Coe into the corrie above Loch Achtriochtan, beneath Dinnertime Buttress, and continue upwards towards the steep crags of Stob Coire nam Beith before breaking off west onto the bealach beside An t-Sron. I’d then spend time creating mountain landscape before continuing up the ridge to camp for the night on the summit of Bidean nam Bian (which, at 1107m high, is the highest peak in the old county of Argyll).
The internet is the obvious valuable resource for a mountain landscape photographer. With many useful tools such as Google Maps, Google Images and the Sunseeker app (or alternatives such as Photographer’s Empheris), you can plan out in detail exactly which locations should be worth going to and when, with the huge advantage of knowing in advance where the light will fall. You can research up-front in the comfort of your home or office and, on the day, it's hopefully simply a case of being blessed with good weather.
On this occasion, I had the summits of both Stob Coire nam Beith and Bidean nam Bian all to myself. For a short while, there was two people on the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan, over a kilometre away (I think they’d scrambled up a route on Dinnertime Buttress), but when they'd gone it was just me and an uninterrupted 360-degree view I had of many of the beautiful glens, lochs and mountains that make up the Glen Coe and Lochaber region in Scotland, plus nearby Glen Etive and more. I'd read there was good ground for camping just to the west of Bidean's rocky summit and this proved correct - there's a lovely lawn-like area with minimal rocks in the ground that is an ideal place to pitch a tent. (You could also take a bivvy bag but I’d opted this time for the additional protection a tent provides due to my anticipation that I’d be blighted by that scourge of Scottish summer camping, the Scottish midge (which thankfully never materialised). I did though manage to lose a bag of semi-frozen grapes to a crow, which I'd been HUGELY looking forward to because it was very warm. There was almost a murder.
By midnight, I’d stopped taking photographs and was settled down in my sleeping bag, my alarm set for 3.00am (plus, as a precaution, 3.20am, 3.30am and 3.45am). Sunrise on this day was at 4.30am but it never really got dark and at 2.30am I popped my head out my tent to find it relatively light and with a lot of colour still in the sky. I decided I’d just get up and I was glad I did, as I spent a very special few hours in beautiful silence picking out landscapes on the horizon as the sun slowly came up, which allowed me to capture a range of mountain landscape images that I was really happy with and was Iooking forward to sharing with clients.
As for my foot? Unfortunately, it wasn’t strong enough. An innocuous slip on the way down caused me to put all my weight through it and it didn’t cope well at all. After a painful and lengthy descent (and a recommended x-ray from the hospital - which thankfully showed I hadn't re-broken it and it was likely tissue damage) I was back on the mend, although highly mindful of a friend’s advice, which is to be careful and to 'remember, you need your feet forever”.
Camera equipment
Nikon D4S (My Nikon D810 was in for a service)
Nikon 24mm f1.4
Nikon 70-200mm f2.8
Calumet wireless transmitter/receiver
Manfrotto Carbon Fibre tripod
Filters (Circulariser polariser / Graduated ND filter)
F-Stop Satori camera backpack
(The above forms part of my photography equipment list)
View from the summit of Bidean nam Bian over the ridges of Bheinn Fhada and Buachaille Etive Beag, plus the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor, towards Schiehallion
Orange-tinged clouds at dusk looking north from the summit of Bidean nam Bian. In view is Aonach Eagach, Sgurr a’Mhaim and Am Bodach in the Mamores, plus the big 4,000+ft peaks above Glen Nevis - Ben Nevis, Carn Mor Dearg, Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag.
Rocks have been balanced near the summit cairn on Bidean nam Bian, one of which points towards Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak.
The small rocky cairn adorning the summit of Bidean nam Bian
The view down to Ballachulish bridge from the summit of Stob Coire nam Beith, as Loch Leven spills out into Loch Linnhe in the West Highlands of Scotland
Looking over Stob Dearg summit on Buachaille Etive Mor towards Schiehallion
Looking over Aonach Eagach to Na Gruagaichean and Binnein Mor, two Munros in the Mamores, from the summit of Bidean nam Bian
Afternoon light illustrates two hikers standing on top of the scree-covered summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan
The panoramic view north from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, looking over Stob Coire nan Lochan, Aonach Eagach plus most of the Mamores to Ben Nevis (the UK's highest peak). Carn Dearg, Aonach Mor, Aonach Beag, the Grey Corries, Stob Coire Easain and Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin are also in view.
Dirk Zangen - Celtman Champion
A photo shoot with German triathlete Dirk Zangen ahead of his win at the Celtman Extreme Scottish Triathlon.
For a time, each year, in June, I looked forward to spending time with friends in the far north of Scotland, in Shieldaig and Torridon, at the Celtman Extreme Scottish Triathlon. A few days before one year’s race, I had the pleasure of photographing elite German triathlete, Dirk Zangen, of Brussels Triathlon Club, who went on to win the race in a time of 11:51:14. It was Dirk Zangen's second time competing in the Celtman. We had met before, in appalling weather, as Dirk descended out of the mist into Coire Mhic Fhearchair on 3,000ft+ high Beinn Eighe. I was walking out with camera gear, trying (and eventually failing) to keep up with Dirk, who had an injured foot. Once healed, Dirk's resolve was to return and compete in the Celtman once again. Trained by Scottish professional triathlete, Graeme Stewart, Dirk returned to Scotland and stormed to a first place finish.
